This bobber fishing truly intrigues me. I have not tried this type of fishing. I was wondering if you can effectively bobberfish with a shorter rod. I have a 8.5 foot and a 9 foot but the lengths that I am seeing in the posts are longer. Also is there anyone willing to let me meet up with them so that I can watch your technique? I read quite well but find that observation of technique can reveal finer points. Anyway, I am really enjoying this thread and hope to learn more from it. (As an aside, right now I flyfish, baitfish (rarely) and use lures mostly. I am looking for a different and more effective way of fishing with standard gear and bobber fishing seems to have promise.) Thanks

Thomas: To answer your first question, yes, you can fish floats with an eight or nine foot rod--they're just not as effective as the longer rods. When I first got into float fishing, I just used my standard 8.5-foot drift rod. I learned the basics and caught a few fish--and realized I liked float fishing enough to invest in a longer rod. With a longer rod, you're able to keep more line off the water, which helps in achieving a drag-free drift. The longer rod also helps on the hookset, because it's able to pick up more slack line.

To answer your second question, I'd be glad to meet up with you on the river sometime and show you what I know (my skills are adequate, but nothing like some of the experts on this forum, I'm sure). I live on the eastside too, so we're in the same neighborhood. I'm currenly nursing a sore back, so I'm out of commission right now, but I plan on being healed up and ready to fish by the beginning of December--just in time for winter steelhead. If you want to try to meet up this winter, just drop me an e-mail.

Tillamook tidewater bobber fishing, Trask tidewater 11/3. Fishin' Mission scores in
the Asaltor.

Nanook, I'm curious what rods you and Fishin Mission are using for the big Tillamook tidewater fishing. I used to use a Lami Kenai Killer in 9' length and line rated 10 to 30 lb. I lost that rod out of my boat and have been using 8.5' 25 lb. rods in recent years, and am thinking about a 9.5' 30lb. rod. What do you guys recommend?

As for floats, I like the slidding larger Thill 'torpedo' shaped slidders for deep tidewater chinook holes. Up river in clear water I have watched bigger and/or brighter floats spook fish off to the side of the drifting float. I like to use the natural cork fixed floats in clear water up river.

Steve

[ 11-07-2001: Message edited by: RT i ]

I have a 10' TH custom rod rated 6-15 lb. This rod has a longer butt grip and will whip salmon up to 35lbs. My reel is the Shimano Stradic 4000 using 14 lb. Fireline. My cork preference is changing somewhat from cork to Thill steelheader floats and I fish it fixed because I rarely fish in water over 10 feet deep.These floats are easily "clipped" to your mailine and then held snugly with a rubbersleeve. I would say the only drawback might be that they are not able to handle a 1/4 ounce jig head with a shrimp tail or eggs without almost going under so I don't use any weight with them. When I do fish deeper water I can easily go to a sliding float because I usually carry two rods. What everyone is saying about longer rods is right! My next rod will be 10.5 feet at least! It's so important to have little or no slack in your line so when the bobber does go down you have a "direct" connection and the longer the rod the easier it is to keep your line mended off the water.I also use braided dacron line I can really bury the hook. Most jig hooked fish are upper mouth hooked and sometimes through the beak so you really have to put it to them and with the "no stretch" dacron (Fireline,PowerPro or Spiderline) line you can do just that.

I am confused about the fixed vs slider float discussion. As Hawk pointed out a few days ago, if you put both a top bobber stop knot AND a lower bobber stop knot you have the best of both worlds. Keep them both at the lowest possible position and you have a fixed set-up. To fish the bobber as a slider, simply slide the top knot up the line.

The discussion about the type of reel is also confusing. I fish a baitcaster and just add enough slinky weight to the snap-swivel to keep my bobber barely floating. That gives me enough weight to throw any distance I like and then I have all the advantages of a baitcasting reel (and there are many). In the summer I use exactly the same set-up, but lighten up on the leader diameter, reduce the jig size and adjust the length of leader to suit the conditions. The baitcaster works just fine all year around.

The point is that you need not throw light weights when bobber fishing with jigs, bait or one of RT's pink worms.

[ 11-07-2001: Message edited by: thumper ]

It's a matter of preference Jack what is so hard to understand about that? For holes that are 4-10 feet which comprises 90% of my jig fishing for steelhead I like the Fixed float with spinning rod and reel For tidewater bobber and eggs,deep salmon holes I will use a slider and baitcasting reel.I fish small streams
and this method WORKS FOR ME Your method
works for you so don't look down upon people if they fish differently from you.

Shane --- I don't look down upon anyone. I just think that this whole bobber/jig fishing thing has been made out to be much more complicated than it really is.

Well Jack it doesn't get much simpler that tying on a jig, setting your bobber for the depth you want and going for it. Nothing complicated about that! Only one knot you have to worry about.