I wouldn't say channeling....

But, I would and do pay attention to what BigStick says about scopes, rifles, and shooting, even though I can't understand 99% of any and all BigStick Talk.

Evo would be asking a *lot* fewer questions if he paid closer attention to BS and Driftin'.

Driftin' Talk is right up there. 3/4 of the time I read his posts and say "What the hell did he just type up?" Good thing he doesn't actually talk that way in person because he's another shooter guy one should listen too!

im listening, but both of them confuse me sometimes...

i think what driftin and DD as well are doing, is exactly what my dad would do... they are giving me "tips", but also making me research and learn on my own... because you will be far better at it if you do it yourself, vs someone holding your hand the whole way...

and honestly, im grateful for that, and appreciative... it does make it more difficult, but in the end, i will be better off... and thats what matters most, to be better at it than you would if someone just told you how to do it... lots of people get told how to do things, and can never do them correctly... the people that learn to do things correctly on their own, always succeed....

I speak softly....

Was going to buy the wheeler fat wrench, sportsman's is sold out, they only have the scope kit and I don't want that right now...

So, should I get the regular analog one, or the digital one for 20 bucks more?

I'm thinking about going to the range tomorrow, well see how the day goes...

ok, so it didnt go the way i wanted it to go... but i guess thats that...

i had no feed problems, no hang ups, no burs in the chamber that could make it stick, that part ran fine....

so lets start with the minor issues...

the scope... i lose sight of the crosshairs because they are so fine, its to the point i cant even see the diamonds, its causing me to guess where the crosshairs are before i pull the trigger... i tried messing with the rear parralax dial, but it didnt do anything, i had the rear focus dial set at 120 ish, i was shooting at 100, even with it at 100 it didnt do anything different... im not sure if thats me, or just the fineness of the hairs, but its a slight issue...

the stock is OK, not bad, not great, my 10/22 stock is a hell of alot more comfortable...

the bipod, yanked it...

the rounds, the 178 grainers in the ELD actually shot fairly decent, the bore sight job was a hack job, it was left and high at 100 by about 2 feet each direction, it took me the 4th round till i noticed what was going on... fixed it, 1 hit the paper, then i adjusted and fired the next 4, not that bad, but not great, not what i expected or want... again that could be me...

it HATED the 200 grain ELD-X rounds, 5-7 inch groups at best...

some of that could have been because im losing focus on the hairs, and am pulling the shots... but the 178s performed pretty good for what i was dealing with...

me.. kinda stressed yesterday and today, woke up pissed off and decided to go... the first few went fine, but by the 30th round i could see my heartbeat moving the scope around so i called it a day... i havent eaten anything yet today either, i just got home, and am starving, kinda shaky as well so im going to put most of the blame on me than anything else...

the trigger.... sucks...

recoil isnt "that" bad, but it did start affecting me, im going to shoot it again before i decide if im going to put a brake on it... ill eat first, and make sure that im not thinking about sh!t other than slamming holes through holes..


everything stayed tight, so no rattling affecting anything, was right between 2 AR-10s so that didnt help a ton either, but thats gun ranges for you... im going to get some more 178 ELD's, and some 180 and 190 grain bullets, i know they make a 190 in ELD so we will see how that goes, i think Welchers has some... ill also grab the 200 grain Sierra Match King rounds by Atomic, and see how they do, the ELD's sucked so maybe the MK's will do better... im going to do the 178s again and the 190's first tho...

anyways, this is the best i could do for the day, the fourth shot (bottom), i pulled , otherwise it would have been in the other 3... it should be better than that however... i think im going to get or borrow a lead sled to see if its me or the ammo, or the rifle itself causing issues... but i think it may just be me....



thanks guys....

oh the RSO's are kinda funny, they talk like they know everything... one was explaining to a group of guys next to me about, "if you drop your scope, its done, game over, will never work again....

you should have seen the look on all their faces when i told them what Stick does, and drills 900 yard shots on the first round...

was pretty funny actually....

How long were you waiting between shots?

Fish on...

Todd

id say about 3 minutes or so.. towards the end of the day i did let it get a little warmer, it didnt affect much, didnt let it get hot tho... after it got the warmest, it sat for roughly 8-10 minutes before i fired again...

i started thinking last night about what was going on, and i may have figured part of it out...

the scope issue losing the crosshairs, thats something im going to have to figure out...

the pulling shots, it was the platform... they use these red rests that are like a funky pyramid that goes up to the rest point, at the rest, its about 3 inches wide, by 4 inches...

well i like the rest to be back further, in front of the floor plate, when you put a long rifle on a rest that is 3 inches wide, you create a teeter point, the gun moves freely, which is probably why i could see my heart rate so easily in the scope... if you watch Sticks videos, and nearly any long range shooter, they are shooting off bags, or rucks like Stick, well thats not a teeter point, Stick for instance could have 10 inches to a foot of contact on the bottom of the rifle... makes for a much more stable platform than a 3 inch wide square....

when testing ammo, i like to use rests, like gun sits in it rest... i can get a lead sled for 70 bucks which i may do, but i was also thinking i need a back pack to carry the tools and sh!t back and forth, so i could take that out and stuff my coat or a couple of coats in it and shoot off that, similar to what Stick does....

then, there is the guy from the other videos i posted, he has that plate that comes out of the bottom of the butt, and contacts the ground, but that would require alteration and im not going to go that route i dont think, i want to see if i can get used to this stock first....

i guess it didnt perform that bad, but it still could be better... i havent owned a magnum rifle since my dad died, just some .308s and 7.62X39 and such, last magnum rifle i fired was my brothers .300 win Savage 110, and i fired like 3 rounds out of it... ive also never owned a .300 mag, so im not super used to firing them like i am the 7MM mag...

that teeter point tho, has been bugging the sh!t out of me now that i realized it..... it basically cost me 100 bucks to figure that out....

Again, slow down and read/research if you don't know. Especially before you $pend. As I asked my #2 son years ago in his tender youth, "Who's responsible for your education?"

Your fine rifle is akin to the built 350 you've talked about. Tune and enhance but don't be pulling spark plug wires in frustration/ignorance....

Reticle focus is independent of and not the same as the parallax adjustment/optic focus. Pull off the scope's aft BC scope cover and notice the white "+ 0 -" . Twist the eye cup a little one way then t'other until the reticle is sharp and clear to *your* eye. That setting won't change, regardless of distance or optic focus, until your eyes do. To restate the obvious for those that can't discern same, the overall image may be fuzzy if you have the parallax/focus adjustment ring set at 100 yards and you are trying to focus the reticle at a white wall at 20 paces. Savvy?

To repeat myself, read up on optic parallax. Next time you have your rifle on a bench/bags and you have your reticle properly focused, slowly turn the parallax adjustment ring (marked in yards to infinity, not the "+ 0 -" ring) until the viewed image becomes sharp. You're most likely there at longer distances but as a final check, slightly move your head side-to-side. If the reticle doesn't move on the bullseye, your golden and parallax is too. Shoot away. To see the difference, dial the parallax ring until the image gets a tad fuzzy at a target at say 25 paces and then move your head slightly. The reticle will move relative to the fixed bullseye. This is even more important at shorter distances. For my field target air rifle, I have a large diameter side wheel ring on the focus/parallax knob marked in yards to both range distance and adjust parallax when one tries to thread a .177" pellet through a .25" field target's steel face plate at 20 paces.

The front rest should be just aft of the sling lug and positioned consistently from poke-to-poke. There are plenty of vids/articles out there on proper BR shooting form/gear. Try a Rubbermaid tote (like a very short garbage can) to tote all your range gear around.

I'm not going to research it for you but you may not have enough rpm to stabilize heavier/longer bullets. Thus the poor groups for the heavy ELD's. You're probably OK but should check to be sure. By way of analogy, kids can spiral a Nerf football but not a real/larger one....

Finally, I'll suggest that you get a bore guide and a bottle of Barnes CR-10 and *read* the instructions before using it. Do that followed by running a patch dosed with JB Bore Paste until she screams for mercy. Follow that with a few isopropyl patches until they're clean. Since you're not using moly'd bullets, I like FrogLube liquid for bores. Copper fowling will hose accuracy. This process removes that variable. Just as Paker will tell you, always rod from the aft end....

Out.

Yeah, that does sound like something Paker would tell you.

The JackHammer, on the other hand, would tell you to rod from both ends and bring on a double barrel for good measure.

Fortunately, I do not speak for either of them.

i ran a few patches when i got home, i did it carefully from breech to muzzle, making sure that i didnt smash anything in the throat/breech area, and it honestly wasnt that dirty... i used Remington 40X cleaner...

ordered a bore guide from Midwest Gun Works, should be here by the weekend, then i will run some more patches through it as you said...

what do you mean by running bore paste "till it screams for mercy"? what is it doing? what should i be doing?

you were right about the RPM's driftin...

i talked to a gunsmith yesterday about another project im going to be doing soon (Remington 721 in triple duece), and brought up the 700 and the 178s and 200s....

this barrel has a 1:11 twist, the longer heavier bullets cant be stabilized i guess... basically this is the exact same rifle (minus stock most likely) that the USMC snipers use to this day, with kills out to 1500 yards... the bullet they use, is a 175 grain Sierra Match King, hence why the 178s performed so well and the 200s didnt at all....


the problem however, is you cant find any... they need to be handloaded it looks like...

im gonna run those 178s again, those ELD's should be a better bullet than the SMK, and since im not up and running loading yet, thats what my choice is, he said i could also try 168 grain and 180s and 190s but anything longer than that, im not going to get any performance....i think i will try 168s before 180, because its a tad shorter so well see....

i got the bore guide, its a Sinclair, inside of it, you can see what looks like rifling? but there is little burrs coming off the plastic in there, little thread like pieces of plastic, im going to run the bore brush down it and try to scrape them off so they dont end up in the grooves of the rifle then get melted in when i fire a round if i dont get them all out....

sound about right?