Just a quick question, why do all the boodggers seem to use spinning reels & rods? What is the method behind the maddness? What is your rod & reel of choice and why?

br,
I use a spinning reel for doggin because most of the time (if not all) Im throwing small amounts of lead. You want just enough lead to tick bottom every ten to fiteen feet or so. As you probably now, small amounts of weight and baitcasters dont mix very well. It can be done but is much easier and less hassle to use a spinning set up.
As far as rods (most use an 1141 or similar setup) the soft slow action allows the fish not to have the offering ripped out of its mouth while the boat is drifting.

At least, those are the reasons why I choose a spinning setup

RL

RL

You said it rocklizard. I fish the same thing, gloomis 1141s gl3 and a regal x 2500 spinning reel.

I see most guys using the 1141 with a good spinning reel.

1141 for me with a Spirex 2000 reel. I love Shimano's auto-centering spool. I'm the one who get's stuck running the boat and I can keep one hand on the tiller while the spool centers. Then I use the Quickfire trigger to flip the bail (also one-handed) and then I cast. It's very user-friendly.

Same as Wader for me. Spirex 2000 and GL3 1141s when I'm on the tiller.Makes one hand fishing alot easier.

When I'm in the front seat(which ain't often ) Same rod with a Diawa Laguna 2500. Much smoother than the Spirex and better drags but thougher to fish one handed.

Lots of combos work well.

What Rocklizard said, although, I'd tell someone to use a good hunk of lead. You want your bait on the bottom, where the fish are. I want to feel that lead dragging across the bottom at all times when dogging. If the boat is run properly, your lead won't hang up, and that lead keeps your bait where it needs to be.

The 1141 rod is a very slow action rod. You want a rod that is light (because it hurts to hold it all day long) and you want a rod that will "load up" on you when a fish grabs your bait. Spinning rods are easier to cast, especially when you get 4-5 rods fishing. You don't need to be worrying about backlashes when dogging.

The Allstar Elite 1141s is a good, inexpensive, rod, that I'd recommend for the casual dogger, or someone who might only get out 1-2 times a year. The Loomis GL3 1141s is another good rod that is lighter than the Allstar, and would be one I'd recommend for the dogger that's starting to get more serious. The Loomis IMX 1141s is expensive, but is considerably lighter than the GL3. If you can afford one, this would be my recommendation for any serious dogger. The Loomis GLX 1141s is just too darn fragile. You'll break it, guaranteed. Not my recommendation.

There's a trade off between reel size, line capacity, and reel weight. If you boondogg all day long, lighter is better. But, if you use the small reels, and break off a few times, now you have no line left to properly cast, etc. Oh sure, you should always bring extra spools, but this is a pain. On the small side I'd say a 2000 series Shimano. If you want to go a little larger, I'd recommend the 2500 Diawa series. I've switched over to a Diawa 2500 Capricorn. Seems to be a good reel, although it's not as light as I wished.

If I were side drifting, I'd use a much lighter lead, as you are not using your boat (as much) to influence your presentation. You try to keep your boat in line with your presentation. If you don't have light leads, you'll hang up in an instance! I'd also use a faster action rod, maybe something in the 1082, 1083 and even 1143 range. You want to be able to set the hook as soon as you feel the fish. You're not really letting the rod load up on you, like you would if you were dogging.

Just my .02 worth.

Here is another question- sidedrifting and boondoggin whats the difference?

Hey there parker, why dont you recomend the All Star rod for fisherman that fish often?
Just curious, as I am considering gettin a few All Stars for side driftin/boonin ,, maybe the 1143S or 1141S..

dont got the big $$$ like you so gotta get the db outfitted with some cheaper gear lol

all my loomis rods are either plug rods or casting

PEACE
T

Ok. Bad choice of words. The Allstar is a great rod and you won't be disappointed by outfitting your boat with Allstars. The Allstar Elites are on par with the GL3. For the price, you can not beat the Allstar.

The reason I switched over to the IMX was weight and feel. The IMX is made of a higher modulus (sp?) graphite. It is much lighter than the Allstar and is way more sensitive. Both are winning combinations if you boondogg out of sled all day long.

Even if I were a guide and did this for a living, no way would I outfit my boat with IMX rods. They'd all break in a day! I'd go with the Allstar line over Loomis. Better pricing for guides, lifetime warranties, and no limits as to how many rods you can purchase. Right now, I think guides have some thing like a 5-6 rod per year limit for Loomis rods. I think. Any guide can feel free to correct that.

I also have an Allstar 1141s and 1143s. Love them both. The 1143s is a great rod for side drifting or using as a floatnjig rod. If you do a lot of side drifting, I'd consider the 1082. You want a faster action rod for side drifting. The 1141 would be a little too slow for that.

If I can get an IMX 1141s for 50% off, am I still considered rich and have the big $$$? I never said I paid anywhere close to full retail for my IMX rods. No way I could afford that! Now, gimme 50% off an IMX and I'm there!

Unfortunately, I think every person on this board will give you a different answer. Here's what I do for both techniques. Call them what you'd like.

Sidedrifting:

You can side drift out of sled or drift boat. The concept behind sidedrifting is that you cast your presentation out slightly upriver of your boat. Don't go below perpendicular. Fish will be taken right next to, or slightly above your boat. The operator of the boat either uses the motor or oars to keep the boat moving as fast as your presentation. Usually, long leaders and very light leads are used on moderate gear. You'll want to set the hook as soon as you feel the fish. It's important that everyone sidedrifting in the boat uses the exact same gear, lead, line, leader, etc. The guy on the oars/motors makes it all happen.

Boondogging:

You really need a motor and a good tracking boat to boondogg (BD). The concept behind BD is that once your boat is tracking as fast as the water you are fishing, all lines are cast well above the boat. Casting well past the bow is not uncommon. Fish will be taken well above your boat. The operator of the boat will take the boat well above where you start to BD. The kicker is started, put in reverse, and the boat is pulled back down the river, as fast, if not faster than the current. The first person to cast out is ALWAYS the first guy at the stern. You work your way up the boat until the guy at the bow is the last guy to cast. Ideally, everyone tries to cast the same distance up river, but tries to hit a different lie in the water. Ideally, you want your 4-5 baits all coming down in their own little path, and not following another bait. It's important that everyone uses the same gear, as if you do not, some one's gear will move faster than others. This leads to tangles, etc. Casting order and discipline is a must here, but not so much when side drifting. Slow action, light rods are used, as you will wait for that rod to "load up" and feel a good 3-4 headshakes before setting the hook. Heavier leads are used to get the baits down. The movement and speed of the boat prevents your leads from getting caught up in the rocks. Like side drifting, the man behind the motor is the key and makes it all happen. Not to mention, since they are always first bait in the water, that rod will almost always hook the majority of fish.

Free Drifting:

Have no idea what this really is, or how it technically differs from the above two.

Like I said, that's what I understand the techniques to be, and that's how we fish those different techniques. More often than not, you'll see a bastadization of both techniques. Very common to see something in between the two on the Cowlitz, etc.

Any ways, I might be full of crap on this one, but oh well. Hope it helps.

Sorry to say this Parker, but you WILL be dissapointed if you bought your Allstars from Ted's. They're discontinuing carrying them, and WILL NOT honor the over-the-counter warranty!

I know this first-hand because I bought both an 1141s and an 1143c from them. BOTH rods broke at the ferrule after only a couple of weeks of mild use. Ted's said they would not give me a new rod and that I would have to deal with Allstar directly.

Maybe it's just been my bad luck with them, (though I doubt it) but the word I got basically from the horse's mouth was that the reason Ted's is no longer going to carry Allstar's is because so many came back for warranty, that it's just not worth it to them to go through the hassle.

I have since bought the Loomis, (which I should have done in the first place) and I couldn't be happier.

Just buy 2 of every Allstars over 1 GL3. You'd still save $$$ and not be out a rod!

Personally, I use my Allstar as "utility" or "specialized" rods.

My main baitcasting and spinning rods are Loomis IMX. Not willing to pay that stupid $50 "bend over" fee Loomis has. Fortunately, I haven't broken any of my Loomis rods yet.

That makes sense I guess. The Allstar's feel fine and I definitely like the price. Now if they would only stop breaking in the exact same place...

I've never broken a Loomis (or a Lamiglas) either. Hmmmmm...

GL3 1141s / 2000 Stradic.Good luck,
STRIKE ZONE

Most light rods seem to break right at that point. That's a weak point for most 2-piece, light rods. Actually, I think it's safe to say that's a weak point for just about any 2-piece rod.

I watched Sthdr1 bust 2 IMX 1141s, and a GLX 1141s last year by just setting the hook. They all broke in that same eact spot you mentioned.

I've seen someone snap a GL3 1143 on the Wind fighting a springer.

1141's and 1143's are weak/light rods. They will break at that spot if put to their limits, reglardless of who makes them.

I realize that Parker, but the 1141 broke while just leisurely casting a shad dart! It mushed the male end of the ferrule and I almost lost the top section into the river. The 1143c broke while casually fighting a 5# silver last fall in the Snohomish river. Luckily I got that one replaced before Ted's decided to stop honoring the warranty.

Believe it or not, I've been fishing with graphite rods long enough that I have a pretty good idea as to what kinds of stresses they can and cannot take. Sharp hook-sets, or ANY sharp motion for that matter will usually cause thin, high-modulus graphite rods to break.

Remember too, the soft, slow action of an 1141 should help with this.

I also know not to use a line test that is vastly overrated for the rod.

I'm not trying to bash Allstar, just relating my experiences. One broken rod, yeah maybe a defect. 2 broken in the exact same place without mis-using them, coupled with the fact that a VERY reputable and knowledgable tackle store owner is no longer carrying them because of the high return rate of broken rods, and methinks there is something rotten in Denmark. (or Houston, Texas as the case may be. )

Or you could bag both companies and go rainshadow. Best damn blanks for the buck on
both sides of the mississippi!

From my understanding, a certain shop dropped all their AllStar rods because of the constant breakage problems.

I have no complaints with my Allstar Rods. I'm just basing my recommendation on that, not what some store or owner thinks or does.

Actually, my recommendation for a doggin' rod is the IMX, but apparently I'm either loaded with $$$, or the only person to get 50% off Loomis rods so no one else can afford one.

What's the connection between Allstar and Rainshadow? Isn't Rainshadow either made in the same building as Allstar...or one of the Allstar people left and formed Rainshadow. It's something like that, I believe. I was under the impression that Rainshadow blanks were just Allstar blanks.

TH? Joe? What's the connection between the two companies? Is there one?

I'd love to get a TH Custom 1141s, but as of now, TH as yet to send me one.

Parker
I keep telling you to call me and I'll make you a "New Daddy" special!

The Rainshadow rods were orginally made in the All-Star plant.. but are now made up here in the great NW
No other connections..

There is quite a difference in the two blanks..


and as Parker stated.. the 1141 is a very light rod! It is rated 4-8# ouch! not much backbone/power there.. you need to be careful

We have been selling a lot of Rainshadow 1143s rods to "doggers" up north...

Our clients are saying they are very light and sensitive yet offer a tad more power when setting the hook or fisghting the bigger fish...
I like the 1143s over the 1141s..

Yes there is another connection TH Don Mook use to work at Allstar and now works at Rainshadow.
Peace
Superfly

I find the Allstar 1141 to hold up perfectly to the sidedrifting abuse during our X-treme sidedrifting adventures. A more expensive delicate rod does not hold up. I can't keep a Lami Esprit to stay in one piece or perform for distance.
Of course there are other rods to try. I built a rod from a 1201 Rainshadow blank that worked out great last Saturday. It is inconclusive on whether or not casting distance was improved. But it was definitely a fishcatcher.

I stand corrected Joe
Thanks

Don now designs blanks out of the NW factory.. for rainshadow

Check your email, TH.