You guys are really hurting me....went years without busting a rod, and in the last three years have broken a rod each year.....and, yes, I broke every one of them doing exactly what you've been talking about!! I guess it goes with the territory......fishing big fish on small rivers seems to be constantly putting me in precarious situations. A lot easier to be kind to a rod while fishing from a boat than it is while casting from a brushy bank under the trees, in one of those fast, deep water pockets where you know the fish is going to shoot straight down through the rapids below as soon as you set the hook.

Ah, well....it's a helluva lot of fun!!

Surecatch,

Saw a guy doin the high-stick while banking a chum on the Satsop -- SNAP. The guy next to him says "bummer" and does the same thing 20 minutes later. The nets came out after that.

Rob,
Awesome post!!! I cringe too when I see a rod being high sticked, or being held above the foregrip. But the picture Surecatch posted takes the cake. Do you know how many times I heard, "my rod broke trying to land a 5# humpy" ouch!!! Did you know it only takes 2# of pressure to brake a tip section, and it takes less than 8# of pressure to brake a butt section of say a rod rated to 20# line!!! Thanks Rob for shedding a little light on rod breakage!!!
Winterun

I have found that these high dollar graphite rods are awsome.They are light with great sensitivity.A joy to fish!

Untill the mother ****er breaks five miles into a canyon

I gave up and fish my old dependable southbend noodle rod 80% of the time.I do not blame the rod manufacturers of these high end rods.I have had to admit that they are just too delicate for the beating olympic penninsula canyon.They cant even handle the wear of beating against itself while beating the brush.

I still own a certified pro that I will fish every now and then.

Piper...Wow someone who actually has heard of Clearwater blanks...funny how the one rod I have that is a Clearwater custom has been through years and years of rough fishing and only the tip guide has come loose a few times...new guides and a new finish and she's ready to go...Keep in mind that I have a couple of dozen rods so I am not using it out of necessity...I just like the feel. The other rod , the Clearwater 904, is kind of like my old dog...she pisses on the floor now but I don't plan on getting rid of her for a new model...Thanks for the "tip" on the 902/903...I wonder if there are others out there who have Clearwater rods????? helllllooooo

Good educative thread. I spoke with the repair guy at Lamiglas and was told much of what you guys have mentioned. $42 to repair (plus the $15 s/h) to get a new top section, not a bad deal. Although I have seen some reasonably nice rods out there in the $60 range.

Precisely why I don't fish much graphite. I like my cheap glass rods, can't break 'em! The high end rods I do have I love them, but they just can't take the abuse of even bouncing around in the boat.

Rob,

Excellent educational post. You said in your initial post: Would you elaborate on "hoop strength" and how it contributes to the performance of a rod? Is "hoop strength" what you mean by "strength across its grain?" Does "scrim" provide all the "hoop strength" in a rod or is some additional method employed by various manufacturers?

Thanks in advance.

NW flyfisher

first off i am not an expert by any means I have only been in the rod making industry for 3 years now and am just trying to help people understand why rods break. In other words i don't know everything yet..

However... "hoop" strength is what keeps the rod tubular in shape. In essence a rods hoops strength is its resistence ro crushing. Hoop strength is determined by 3 basic factors
1. the material used ( most notable the scrim)
2. diameter of the part
3 wall thickness

A rod for instance built on graphite with a stronger scrim will have a stronger hoop strength and will be heavier overall as will one built on a larger diameter or increased wall thickness

Hoop strenth does not effect the performance of a rod in terms of casting or function what it does effect is the durability of the part.

for instance Loomis ( not tryint to pick on they they make great rods) years ago when they first designed the IMX several of the models had very thin walls.. They were very light and sencitive and people really loved them but they were very prone to breakage because the thin walls mean low hoop strength.. So hoop strength is a durability issue not a performance issue.. Hope this answers your question

i personally fish 3 berkley rods, never broke one, but the guides need replaced every 6 years or so.. ive put my 10-20 # test med/heavy rod thru torture, im surprised it hasnt broke...

I'm with BB75 on this one. I've been fishing with 3 different weights of Berkly IM7 rods for 6 years now and have yet to break one of them. The little ceramic doughnut in the line guide has fallen out twice and Berkely replaced the rod for $45.00 each time.
I put a lot of pressure on my gear while fishing the terminal areas with heavy lines (14-18 lbs).
I don't believe in letting the fish run all over the place in these crowded conditions so I tend to put the rod and reel drag to the test. Sure I get some break offs and pull outs but that's all part of the deal.
A buddy of mine was bragging up his new Loomis last year right up until the time he broke it, twice in one season. He still ended up fishing his old gear for most of the year.