I have a set of Cataract oars. Over time it appears that the protective coating has worn off the shafts. Every time I use them I get fibers on me and it itches. Has anyone else had this problem, and what did you do about it? Any help would be appreciated.

I've been asked a million times why I took the time in front of TV for a night to wrap the entire length of the oars in electrical tape ... you now know why. Never had a problem even with a set that is now 10 seasons old

Bob, do you use the counter-balanced oars, and if so, do they really help save your shoulders.
I ask because I have had shoulder surgery and am looking for a way to row, without adding to the pain.
Thanks, Fishy.........

No counter-balanced for me. A properly set up catract should not feel that heavy in the hands ... counterbalanced oars need weight to balance. Even though that weight is in the top, it makes the oar heavy overall in your stroke, and I don't much care for that!

Bob is CORRECT!

I hate that I know this. I am in fact studying for the PE exam later this month at this very momment (at least I'm supposed to be).

The concept Bob describes is called the Mass Moment of Inertia, defined as follows: I=mL^2/12, where L is the length of the slender rod (or oar) and m is the mass of the oar. Increase the mass by counter balancing, the numerator increases as does the Momment of Inertia.

Do you want to talk Work & Energy, next? Someone shoot me please.

Thanks, being a new guy to the drift boat crowd I like to ask these questions. Just like when I was going to get a pair of oar rights, my buddy told me that when you have them, and your anchored up it swings the boat back and forth, so he doesn't like them. Took his word for it and didn't get them.
I am sure that i will have many more questions in the future................Fishy.

Hmmmm ... I'm confused, that's the very reason TO get the oar-rights, to keep the blades vertical when anchored to act as a rudder and keep the boat straight.

SOTD: NOW you tell us!

I too have bad shoulder(s), and bought the counter-balanced ClackaCraft PowerStroke oars to take some of the stress off. Yes, Bob is correct in that they are heavy...but I am hoping that 9' oars on my 13'6" wood drifter will work OK..and that the counter-balances are managable.

Any way to "un" counter-balance a set?

Mike

If I understand you correctly, Mike, the answer is simple: Take the weights out of the oar handles.

Actually, I don't understand the appeal of the heavyer oars on the market. I'm a Sawyer light man myself. I can sidedrift my 16' Willie from Morgan's to Barlow's on the Hoh three days in a row and not feel worse for the wear. Last year I even did park line to Barlow one day. Light is right.

Perfect timing for this topic.

I currently own a set of 9 1/2 Carlisle blades and am going to replace them because I hate the fact that the tips sink. 3 times last spring I popped an oar out and I wasn't even in a tail out...

I have a 16x54 fiberglass boat. When I got the boat the oars were unbelievably heavy and nearly killed me on my 1st float. I found that they were set up so the handles were 6 inches apart! I moved the oar stops down so the handles were 1" apart and it made a world of difference. Any other oar set-up ideas?

I like the idea of oar-rites. I take it most of you experienced oarsmen, recommend and use them?

I plan on rowing quite a bit this winter and don't know which oars to buy. Cataract or Sawyer lites. Probable a personal preference thing but I'd like to hear any pros/cons?

Thanks.

I don't really care for oar rites. I have found that when back trolling, you often want to feather the oars so that you dont take a full stroke. Not possible with oar rites. Someone else brings up a good question on this tread, how far apart do you like to have your hands when rowing. I like them close. As far as counter balanced oars, I have a set of Sawyer hybrid counter balanced oars and these are great while actually back trolling, but suck the rest of the time. I most often use Sawyer lites.

Thanks for the info Bob. Guess I better head to the hardware store.

Bob, to clear that up, my buddy says that the boat swings way to much if you are anchored in current. He also mentioned the culling motion when you don't want the whole blade vertical in the water.

Once I put on the oarights the boat became more stable when on anchor, this is why I bought them. I also cut about a inch off of them, so when I am back trolling the oarights are above the oar locks and are not making concact.

The oars should be wrapped so that you have plenty of rop above your normal wear point for rowing ... cut the oar rghts in half and place well above. Then you have the best of both worlds CraigO is right on

Interesting ,thanks for the advice.

I recently broke an oar and was thinking about getting a whole new set. This thread is very timely.

Who sells the Sawyer lites?

Sincerely,

Salmo g.

I think that Outdoor Emporium sells the Sawyer products.

The oar rites I have are just for the anchoring position,to help keep the boat straight.I have them adjusted so they play no part of me being able to feather or row.Like Bob said "best of both worlds".Sounds like a Van Halen song.Good luck,
STRIKE ZONE

P.S. I have the rubber kind from willie.There was no need to cut them down.The plastic one's need to be cut down a couple inches.

I agree on keeping the oar rites up higher on the shaft so they do not have an affect on your ability to feather. They are a must when anchored in fast water to keep your boat from wagging it's tail.

Bob, I too had an old pair of Cat's that the coating had come off of and would leave you with glass in your hands. I had some System Three epoxy left over from building the wood boat. I called Cataract and they said just paint them with the epoxy. I did, and it worked sweet. They'll easily last another 10 years.

FYI

Oar-rite now makes oar stops with the key half as long. The only place I have found them is at Fishcraft.

For those running the Sawyer Lights

Are you running the wood or composite ones?

Wood.

Sol,
you had better get back to the studies. If you don't pass you'll be spending all your time looking for a job and not on the rivers.

Don't you have better things to do............like keep a crew busy? Or does winter have a lobster grip on your little construction business!

Studies, smudies. I'm guna walk through that exam like Grant took Vicksburg---it's a Husky thing. I understand it usually takes WSU grads at least twice to pass.

Duc:

Been looking at those handles, and it seems the weights are sealed in there under a wood plug that sits just below where the paddle connects. I don't want to tear these up to un-balance them.

Might be best I use them as-is for now, and if I don't like them I can always take them back to ClackaCraft and have them fix them up for me. I travel down there on business about once a month, and the 9' oars fit well enough in the Buick when the paddle/handle is separated.

Your testing for your PE? Is there a difference between a mechanical PE and a Electrical PE test?

Mike

Sounds like a good plan on the oars.

The Professional Engineering Exam is different for each disipline.

Yes Sol I have better things to do, but I just love messin with ya! As a matter of fact I've cancelled my Tompson river trip, so I can go back to the cabin. I'll try to stop by this evening!

Sol

Those are what I have, the Wood Sawyer Lights in 9 foot. I like them I just need a third one for a spare.

Anyone got a cheap 9 foot Sawyer Light for sale?

Lead,

I don't keep a full size spare in the boat because I hate tripping over the damned thing. My spare is a 7.5-foot wood oar I keep bungied up under my seats. At 7.5-feet it fits fairly tight against the right side over out of the way. It will be a handicap in the event I ever have to use it, but I figure limping off the river one day is fair trade for space and comfort in the mean time. I have a second one in the garage. You're welcome to it if you want it.

Sol

That could work for me until I get a full size spare. I have a set of row boat oars I can use.
Good idea