There is a Model 700 trigger article online somewhere, I will try to find a link for you, the factory setting is never good enough ! Back in the day Remington owner manuals included trigger adjustment instructions, these days they have a very heavy spring which should be changed out(easy peasy), then you can adjust your own trigger down to 2 lbs, and get rid of the creep, and over travel. After a little massage, your Remington factory triggers can be quite good.


I don't think you need to do anything to a new barrel other than clean it before you start shooting, and clean it whenever it quits shooting accurate groups. I assume you have blued barrels, not stainless, if that is right, then keeping the bore from rusting will be as much of a chore as keeping it clean.

If your rifle is in a factory black plastic stock, then I would replace it.

If your rifle is in a wood stock, then glass bedding it would be the first thing I would do, after adjusting the trigger, then I would install a Leupold scope...then shoot it.

If you run into problems, I will refer you to the guy formerly known as Hog Daddy...

Here is the link to a good article, in fact it should be included with every new model 700....

http://www.snipercountry.com/Articles/RemingtonTriggers.asp


You can only get a certain amount of gain with the factory spring in the trigger, (if the rifle is old then the spring is probably good), but for the last SEVERAL (?) years the trigger springs have been so heavy that you just can't set them very light without encountering safety issues. Midway sells a pack of bulk spring material, Kit No. 69, part #025-069-000, they are 12" long, just cut a piece the same length as the factory spring, make sure the ends are bent in so they don't get into the threads and foul the screw. Use the smallest size spring in the kit, there are two pieces of each size, so one kit is a lifetime supply for you and all your friends, (you will have more friends than you think after they try your trigger)........
An RCBS trigger pull scale is a usefull tool in evaluating your progress, you should at least try your trigger set at 2 lbs, then if it is too light you can set it higher.
Whatever you do, don't by a fancy aftermarket trigger like a Rifle Basix, or Jewell............................you could get addicted.

I just looked at the article again for the first time in a long time, probably should specify, you want to change the trigger weight spring, which is accomplished by removing the trigger weight screw. Actually I recommend taking both the weight screw and the stop screw out, this will let you remove the disconnector (the part that allows the trigger to NOT snap back further as the trigger is tripped), and look at how and why your trigger works...

Oregonian, you did an admirable job!

hooktender, our group here runs the 243AI and I dig it...but I don't have one yet, nor do I know the optimal twist rate. When I get back to town, I'll ask and pass on whatever info they give.

Thanks Brother Dave, how's the knee ?

I am hesitant to speak on matters that I have learned through other people rather than done myself, but I have heard Hog Daddy comment on the .243 Winchester being a better case design than the 6mm Remington, whether they are Ackley Improved or not...

I think building a .243 Ackley that is heavy enough to watch the bullet impact, yet light enough to call light may be a problem...choosing the right scope would certainly help though. I have a 6x42 Leupold on a Remington Ti .260, it has more room for error as far as eye placement than any other scope I have tried, I think that helps get back on target quickly...

I agree, but I'll ask Ramhumper about the one he bought from The Pimp. It's a sweet 243AI, and I was hooked on it the minute I shot it. If I recall correctly, it does wear a 6x42. It's his Oakie rifle, but I'm clueless as to what that name means....

I've heard HogDaddy trumpet the 243AI over the 6 many times....

I don't know how much reamers cost, but I'm sure there are a lot of gunsmiths out there with them in hand already...

I think I've seen .243 Improved on Pac-Nor's list.

I have a 6.5mm Swede in good condition, all #'s matching and 100% complete except the cleaning kit.

Is it worth sacrificing to turn it into a hunting rifle?

I would look for a used Remington Model 700, preferably with a dented up stock and some rust on the barrel. Every once in a while I find a Model 700 for under $300, but I would pay more than $300 if I was in heat. I don't know what your Swede is, but it would probably get you close to the Remington, if not there.

The 6.5mm Swede is essentially a 8mm Mauser that has been necked down to 6.5mm much the same as the 30-06 was necked down to .270--a favorite among deer hunters because of its flatter trajectory.

What are your plans as to how the rifle will balance ?

I have some nose heavy rifles, and now consider getting the balance point right to be of utmost importance..............

Heavy barrel needs heavy stock, long barrels need heavier stock than short barrels, basic I know, but getting it wrong leaves an impression.

I think ot is pretty well believed that a rifle should balance near the front screw or recoil lug, or between them....some personal preference in this area for sure. Best thing is to play around with several rifles paying attention to how handy they feel...

I have found that the stocks on factory rifles are about an inch too short for me, and it is easy to get more barrel length than you need. A 20-22 inch barrel on a fairly light rifle is much easier to work with than a medium weight rifle with a 24" barrel...and that is assuming they both balance right, make the long one nose heavy, and it turns into junk in a side by side comparison...too bad more people don't take the time to find out what they like with an open mind.

It sounds like you are on the never ending quest for the perfect rifle, welcome to the fun.

I think the Classic and a #4 has great potential, did you specify a weight on the stock ?

Are you going with the .243 Ackley ?

Do you know how to get ahold of Hog Daddy ?

What did the 'smith say about seeing the impact from a .243 Ackley out of a medium-light rifle ?

I would have to defer you to Hog Daddy for more detailed info on the specifics of a new rifle, he is several years and many thousands of dollars ahead of me. I do think a #4 can be accomodated nicely in a Classic, and you can tailor the barrel length to the weight of the stock if it is a given, or you can specify the fill weight within certain limitations....I think they make "light", "standard", "heavy", and "sniper" , I am probably not exactly right, but that is a general idea of the options McMillan offers. What bottom/ magazine you plan to use as well as optics also factors into the overall balance thing obviously.

I see that you already have at least one custom rifle, you probably know more about this stuff than me, I do like to talk about it though eh.....................<grin>

I see Hog Daddy discussing 3500fps with 85gr X's, from the 243AI, though I don't know the twist rate....

Too funny......