You can only fish worms on a spey rod if you bobber-dog 'em. That is the only way that is acceptable. (bobber-dog=Fly-dog)

One of the main reasons is nymphers tend to work a run opposite to the "tradition". They camp on water and work down to up vs. start a the top and cast, swing, step.... That gives everyone as they arrive an equal opportunity to work the run as new fish enter and move around the pool. Agree or disagree that's my story.

Just remember you all that some fly fishermen are yuppie twat traditionalist douche-whipp'n soda drinkin' tip tasters! The important thing is that it is just "some" of us.

Unfortunately those few often are the most vocal and visible in the fly fishing world because they whore themselves out to become fishing "celebrities".

I fish gear a lot but still love swinging flies for steelhead just like some gear guys prefer swinging metal to side drfting bait. It isn't much more complicated than that.

DaveD,

If you're going on the trip with guys who fly fish, then you'll have a better trip if you do the same. Fishing flies and gear together, while feasible, isn't the best mix. Some anglers like to follow flies fished from floating lines with drift gear to see if less aggresive fish will hit something served closer to the river bottom. Talk to your friends.

I haven't ever tried casting a PW on a fly rod, and I think there might be problems keeping a plastic worm on the hook or harness due to the forces of fly casting. As mentioned in some other posts, a good and effective alternative - and I have no idea if steelhead actually have any differential preference - is to tie or buy some pink marabou or pink bunny leech flies.

It's a good idea to have some pink or bright color flies in your box, but I've always been partial to dark colors for the fall steelhead. "Any fly is good, as long as it's black," is a good place to begin. Add some purple, blue, and maroon and you should be set. Regardless, DO HAVE a few Spade flies in sizes 4, 6, and 8, with 6 being the "go-to" fly. BC steelhead really like it.

While gear rods certainly work in BC, they are by no means necessary. I've never taken a gear rod to BC. I knew I didn't need one, and I was right.

CraigO,

It shouldn't be about looking down. Whatever catches fish is cool for some, but not for others. For example, dynamite and gill nets catch fish, but I don't think those are cool ways to catch fish like steelhead. It's about setting personal limits. I know I can catch more steelhead by using drift gear and bait, and probably catch more by nymphing flies than by swinging. I swing flies because doing it the easy way doesn't deliver as much satisfaction as achieving success under the contraints of severe limitations. By way of analogy, some folks take adequate satisfaction in shooting a deer or elk from a great distance with a high powered rifle and powerful telescopic sight. Others find greater satisfaction by limiting themselves to a bow and arrow. Some of those decide that compound bows are "too easy" and limit themselves further with recurve or traditional long bows. Swinging flies from a floating line is like hunting with a long bow. Adding a sink tip line is like using a recurve. Does that help?

Sg

Sg,

There is great wisdom your words. While other dudes discussed the merits of fly vs. gear fishing, you actually provided a good answer to my question and gave me something to think about.

Of course a 14 foot rod will throw a PW, and that is what I was the main thing I was considering. However, your answer about the PW not being able to withstand the force of fly casting was spot on...something I didn't consider.

So I'll either skip the PW...or fish 'em wacky style. That will eliminate the problem.

Just toss a few of these, then you won't go to hell

Twitch,

Thanks for looking out for the salvation of my soul.

What is the material between the hook eye and the hook? String, mono, wire?

Thanks.

The durability issue stems from the fact that mono slices thru the soft worms. You could run a tube thru the worm and just make sure a little bit just sticks out of the front and rear points of penetration. That should fully protect the worm from the action of hi-speed waterloaded/Spey casts.

You could probably take some brake tubing, bevel one end to a sharp point like a hypodermic needle, and string up a bunch of worms (ala TRBO mass-production of rags) then trim the tubing to separate the strung worms.

It would not be necessary to thread the entire worm, perhaps 2-3 inches of tube. String a leader thru the tube and tie a nail knot on the leader to serve as a "stop" for the tubing which would allow you to trail the hook way back.

The off axis rear exit of the tube would kink the tail end of the worm off kilter. Bet it would have a pretty seductive wiggle fished on a swing from the long rod.

FNP is on to somethin' Todd. I'd buy em'.

Its about 4" of 30# backing (braid such as tuff line or power pro works too), with the chenille body wrapped from hook eye AROUND the braid all the way up to amputated hook eye/bead. PLay with how tight you wrap the chenille. Too tight, and you have a very stiff worm, too loose, and it will want to slide back and bunch up above the trailer hook... there is a happy medium.

Nice thing about these, unlike rubber worms, is that your line won't slice through them after a couple casts...

Is that they will catch the [censored] out of steelhead.