I thought about that and I have one...
Bosch Bulldog....gotta have the "switch" (spin, hammer/spin, hammer)
I was going to recommend it earlier, but it doesn't have enough stroke length for this job....works great on concrete though.
An air chisel has a longer stroke and would work much better for steel.


1. Scissor lift
2. Peanut grinder + cutoff disks...cut around welds
3. Aforementioned "magic" Skil Saw blade from Home Depot...fast, general cutting


4. PPE + Fall Protection (FP not needed inside scissor lift)

Without seeing the job, the above gear is my best guess.

It's a puddle weld on tube steel and wide flange beams.
It could be done but it would be tricky with a torch....

If any beam damage occurs the engineer looks at it and if it's deemed serious, a "fix" has to be drawn up.
You then have to apply the "fix" at your cost and ensure that it passes inspection.

They're an industry standard now....we use them by the hundreds.
Any composite blade can come apart.

The thing with these thin cut off disks is to not chip them. If a blade gets chipped you have to change it out.
Let the blade work and never use the side of the blade....only the narrow cutting edge.
They are actually pretty durable.

The only think I can add is +1 on Direct Drives notion to get close to the work. A scissor lift or even rolling scaffolds will help tremendously for the type of work you are doing.

So Hoquiam wants the roof torn off but the beams to remain? Or do they want the whole thing taken down? The CMU walls shouldn't be left free-standing. Thats not safe.

Yep, safety and access.

And then the cheat....use the lift to push up on the panels.
You're not supposed to do it officially.....a large gas rig has a big platform, good power and is very stable.
The skinny electrics that can fit through 3'-0" door openings can be wiggly when you're way up.
Some guys get nervous on those when they're fully extended.
The electrics don't have near the power (to push) of the gas rigs.

The only other way I can see doing this productively is with an industrial fork lift to push up on the panels.
But then your guys have to be totally on the roof or on ladders.
Not as safe.


That's a good point.
Long, high, unbraced CMU walls are sketchy.
We use tilt-up braces on them until the diaphragm is built.

Depends too, on how well the CMU (block walls) is tied to the roof frame.
This is a car wash so there are probably going to be lots of perpendicular/intersecting walls.
That fact should make it pretty stable with the roof off.

I also have the Bosch Bulldog, and a long bit. We'll give that a try, as well as the magic saw blade. Looks like the bank gets to buy a few magix saw blades. The metal is fairly thin.

The City is requiring us to remove the roofing only, not the support structure, because it was peeling back from the south edge. (Simpson) The entire top of the structure is secured by a rectangular steel frame, with "I" beams running length wise, and box beams welded perpendicular to the "I" beams. Removing the roof removes any lift affect from the wind.

We have a person interested in buying the carwash to make it back into a car wash, and they would put a new roof on shortly. Unfortunately, though, the City needs the roof off per an abatement order handed to us once we took over the property. Either way, the roof has to come off.

Thanks for the ideas.

This the blade?

http://www.toolmarts.com/frd_d0748f.html


$40.00

With the Bulldog, take the 1-1/2" chisel bit and sharpen it.
They're meant for concrete and they're kind of dull even when new.

It doesn't sound like you have the correct "Magic Blade". They're as thick as a normal Skil Saw blade and extremely durable.
7-1/4 blade...long service life.
Going to look like this....
http://www.acetoolonline.com/ProductDeta...ite=google_base

Wish I had a part number for you. I think they were a Makita product.
These were easily cutting through large tube steel beams and were cutting metal siding like it was plywood.
Hearing protection is a must with these.

Definitely a goggles and ear protection day. The blade shown cuts through 1/4" steel, steel framing, etc..

Andy,I found the sound track for your demo.

Nice,

My brother had brought that up first thing yesterday.

Nope.
Going to look like this...diamond knock-out for a worm drive.

I wish I wrote that friggin' part number down. <pulling hair out>
They may have come through a contractor's supply house and not The Depot.

If that Diablo blade is rated for 1/4" steel it should do fine with sheet metal.

I wish I had a worm drive "Skill saw" They're sweet.

Yep, Model 77...
The saw that built (and is building) the West.

Go east of the Mississippi and all they use are sidewinders.

I dread bringing my cheap Skill saw out every time.

You can probably find a worm drive for cheap on CL.
$50 probably...light it up before you buy it.
No rumbles (bearings) or no sparks (brushes) and it's good for a long while.

If you're right-handed a worm drive is easier because the blade is where you can see it. The motor is inline so it's not as squirrely as a sidewinder.

Lefties like sidewinders because the blade is on the correct side for them.

All the cool kids have 'em.

Exactly.

Mag77. Lighter, fancier red handles.

Thanks for the assists.

Cute but hate that Mag/Alu table.
Too sticky.

Gimme the steel table.

We needs pics or it didn't happen.