again, im not building a hunting rifle per say, this is more of a target rifle, so extra FPS isnt even on my radar... my points on that thread were that the regular ammo works just fine, is way cheaper, the performance is basically the same, ect... penetration means nothing to me really on this, as im penetrating paper and cans.... and maybe a coyote...

also, regarding the WSM's, i have already talked with a member of the other boards, might even be a member here, anyways, i was going to do a long range rifle with a .300 WSM, and he also told me to stay away from it for target shooting and to just go with a 7mm or plain old .300 Win... if i remember right, it was something about the bullet being stable at long range flight...

name another round capable of what the 6.5 has accomplished in tournaments...

J7, i have access to a Dillon 650, so im not worried too much... i was plugging 60 dollar boxes of 7mm and 80+ dollar boxes of .338 Win Mag when i had those 2 rifles, so ive learned to appreciate not buying factory ammo... the 06 is pretty versatile now that RvDub has me thinking about it... so im not going to switch calibers on this gun... i suppose if i want to get a 6.5, i will just buy the Savage F Class rifle, but they are around 1500 bucks just for the gun, then you have to add all the other crap...

the 06 has been used in 1000 yard competitions as well, so i know its capable of shooting that far fairly accurately... i was thinking of going with a 28'" barrel, with mid grain weight bullets to get decent velocity, without being too heavy and dropping off, or being too light they start to flip and roll in flight at distance... im also not building a 1000 yard rifle either, thats asking alot...500+ yards isnt asking alot, and should be acheivable using this rifle, with not too much spent (barrel and stock pretty much)...

plus it was my dads and i just want to shoot it again accurately...

From what I've read and understand is that its a recoil issue not a caliber issue. Some propose that youre getting the same trajectory as a .300 win mag with less recoil with a 6.5. Looking in my Barnes book here comparing a .264 Win mag to the .300 Win mag you get about the same velocity (130 grain compared to 168 grain). So, with the same B.C., I think you do get the same trajectory with less recoil. I thought the .300 Win mag was the top dog for a while.

I can see you've got it all figured out.

no, i dont, thats why im asking opinions... even yours SM..

im also thinking about putting a brake on the barrel, but ive never used one at long ranges, so i dont know if it has any affect on the bullet... my 7mm was non-broke...(<<< is that a word?)

A brake only reduces recoil and protects your crown from getting dinged up.

i get that part... im curious tho because the gasses escape behind the bullet before it fully exits (ported barrel), so i didnt know if it would decrease anything or help start instability in the bullet itself after distance...

this gun as it is, isnt much fun to shoot... at all... its got a kinda short barrel, and throws fire like nothing ive ever seen with some rounds... i have had range masters come up to me and ask me WTF i was shooting because it was loud, belted the sh!t out of me, and threw fire 5 feet from the barrel in broad daylight... part of that was the ammo tho i suppose, but even Core Lokt rounds throw a significant amount of flames...

after about 20 rounds your shoulder stings, and probably has some purple starting to show, 40 rounds, your shoulder hurts, and shows bruising...60 rounds, you are screwed for 3 days... i do like to get popped to an extent, but that gun is a little excessive in its current state...

sooo, new Hogue overmolded stock, and a bull barrel, bipod, heavy scope, and a brake should take all of that away, and make it much more enjoyable to shoot...

i was going to just get a 700 PSS or SPS Tac and go from there, but im thinking they are going to be tough to find, and probably way higher than the 585 bucks they were before the sh!t hit the proverbial fan...

also, if i do go the new gun route, it HAS to be a 7mm... im familiar with the round, and the model 700, so it would be an easy set up and get going great type gig...

Well, how much do you understand about Newtonian physics?

nothing... i dont even know what it is.... i assume its something that Issac Newton created?

does it have anything to do with Newtons Law?

Its, laws, plural. Which one do you know of?

uhhhhh...

the one that if you run smack dab into a wall, your internals will continue moving till they smack into their "wall" aka your skull ect...

im trying not to word it stupidly and sound dumb...

i think its velocity + mass = force

Close RH, close. That's F=MA, as in force equals mass times acceleration. Carry on.

Ok, maybe I can work with that, but lets stay away from equations. Your skull scenario is Newtons first Law. But, lets make your brain the bullet in this case. I hope you understand that in this scenario the projectile will stay in motion at a constant velocity until its acted upon. Lets say the primer ignites the powder and the majority of it burns on the way down the tube. So now we're right at the crown or muzzle. Both the gas and bullet are going the same velocity. The bullet is in front of the gas (assuming no gas has blown past or seeped around). Then we hit the atmosphere which acts on the bullet and the gas.

So now we are out of the barrel just a tiny bit. The bullet and the gas are now on a separate journey. The gas wants to expand and it slows down quick and short like a parachute while the bullet continues to haul ass. You talked about the huge flame that came out of your 06. The flame was the expanding gas and unburned powder and your bullet was out in front of that. So a muzzle brake is going to help the gas expand and slow down quicker and in different directions with less opportunity to interfere with the projectile. Does this help?

yeah it helps alot... thanks...

Brownells has Schillen barrels for under 300 bucks that are pretty much screw on and go, with the exception of it needing to be reamed for head space... then maybe i could get Black Bart to do the rest for me?

BB you out there?? how much would that cost me?

first i would shoot it with the newer heavier barrel and stock and see if that takes some of the whack out of it... then decide on a brake... from my experience, brakes make guns louder than normal... i was shooting my Saiga a while back and there was a guy next to me shooting a 700 in .416 Rigby, or maybe it was a Jarrett cal, it was a tactical rifle, and he had a brake on it.... when he fired next to me, it burned my face with tingles and such, was extremely obnoxious, and painfull to be around...

im kinda trying to prevent that to an extent (the .416 is a massive round), dont want to piss anyone off too much with muzzle blast if they arent used to shooting next to it...

Oh Yeah. I'm out here Red Hook. But it would just be so wrong for me to take on any custom rifle work now that my Federal and State business and firearms licenses are no longer current.

My advice, get yourself a wrist rocket and some silly putty and have at 'em sonny boy.

nah, i stopped shooting sling shots when i was little...

you need all that crap to reem a barrel?

this is what im considering and likely will buy in a couple weeks

http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/barrel-parts/rifle-barrels/remington-700-barrel-prod25196.aspx

from what im gathering, its a near drop in barrel, with a little extra work (reaming) needed done, it does say in the specs that minor stock alteration is nessesary some times, i feel comfortable in doing that myself if needed... i pretty much have every wood working tool imaginable to do it...

the buddy that helped me with my 700 is dead, so i cant ask him for anything... i know zero gunsmiths, know zero about whos good and whos not, and would prefer to keep it in this state if i can... id also like to help out members of this site if i can by giving them a little cash and something to work on if they want...

if you wont do it, do you have any recommendations of people in the Puyallup/Tacoma area that are good smiths for a reasonable price? i dont need someone that charges 1000 dollars an hour for superb custom work, but i also dont want some dingbat that will try to install the barrel with vice grips....

RvDub, you know anyone down this way?

If I were in that dudes slippers I'd continue chasing photography......

RvDub, you know anyone down this way?


===========================================

No I don't....at least that I've dealt with and could endorse. I'm sure there are a lot of good 'smiths down that way...I deal with local folks for most stuff.....whatever you do please don't think that your buddys-buddys friend is what I'm talking about.

Ask at some ranges, gunshops, etc.

no, im not going to just let anyone do it thats for sure...

ill contact The Marksman here and see what they say... ive just always noticed that smith fees from shops are higher than guys that do it by themselves... i was hoping to find someone like BB that does it for fun and such, i didnt know you had to have all the licensing and such to even be able to do it...

it shouldnt cost too much to have the barrel i linked installed... just dont want to get railroaded... this is just for fun, not for serious competition... dont want to pay competition prices, but also dont want to pay cheap and have someone screw up...

ill go talk to the guys at TSC tomorrow too...

Wow.... just fuckin wow.....