At around 12X, on a hot summer day the mirage thing starts to happen.
So there's that.

When I crank it up to 20X I start seein' nekked chicks and palm trees.

Ok, I'll stick with the 10x for now...

Does that happen with the super high end scopes as well?

Have oggled Loopy fixed 36x at BR matches. Looked like I was at the entrance to the I-90 tunnel, not the exit. Eye box was minuscule. YMMV. Goodly number of .mil snipers use fixed 10X glass for the reasons cited above and the ability to mil distance without [Bleeeeep!] with a variable if a LRF is not used. There have also been some revealing comparisons betwixt Kahles, S&B, NF, the high end Bushies and the SWFA. Hard to argue results and bang for the buck but you can try.

Mils not MOA. MilQuad reticle is denoted as MQ per the link provided. Much cleaner reticle. Slow down and figure this shizl out. We'll not discuss FFP/SFP. Do what you want to do....

The other benefit of a fixed optic with turrets that match reticle is the fact that if you can hit paper after a 100 pace bore sight poke, place the MQ reticle crosshairs on the bull for your intended zero (250 paces is a good'n for your 300 if you compared notes from JBM) and then count vertical and lateral mils to your first poke. Spin turrets in accord and the next poke should be dead nutz on. Did that with a retired .mil pard spotting some years back and correctly predicted outcomes. The old dog said, "You really suck at this, don't you." We both laughed....

I can't spell Toff and Jeak either.

In the field and on the "hunt", my fixed optic Leupolds are second to none.

Don't like the VX I put on the new field gun. Thought it was going to work as a long range plink gun, but not so much. Wish it had a fixed Loopy on it.

I'd think the variables are fine on a bench where one has time to monkey with all the dials.

ill go with the 10X, i think that reticle will be fun to mess with, i have only messed with 1 mildot style scope, and it was only for a couple rounds so i didnt even use the dots... all my scopes have always been duplex, fine, or target dot reticles... this should easily help take out the guess work at distance for holdover and such, as there are actual impact point dots vs just lines....

as far as the range finder, id like to get one of them as well, i used to have X 1000 Leupold finder but someone stole it years ago...

there is one from ATN (the night vision optics company), that has bluetooth, connects to your phone, and you input your information into the app, and it will tell you the precise elevation and windage clicks you need to apply... its not too terribly expensive, and goes to 1500 yards...

sig also makes one for around 400 that goes to 2k yards, but doesnt have the app or such as the ATN...

im going to be at a fixed range so im not worried about getting one just yet, but i will.....

If you want a brake and you want to do it right the first time get a can and never look back. There’s a lot of good glass out there and unless you plan shooting 1000+ yards you’ll have plenty of good choices for under a grand.

Enjoy the process of setting up a nice rig even if it means doing it in smaller and more affordable steps.

I read on the long range shooters forum that the SWFA is the old Japanese Tasco “sniper” models that didn’t sell at the price point they were asking so SWFA rebranded and added some doodads for modern “riflemen” but the glass is essentially the same. I sold quite a few (Tasco snipers) to guys for their.338 Lapuas and several to one guy for his BMG’s, he loved them. With Vortex, Athlon and several others that have great customer service one has more choices and better quality than higher end scopes of a decade ago. Fixed Leupolds are never a bad choice.

I recently bought a Remington Amish machine gun because they were asking a price I couldn’t pass up. The Leupold was worth the price of the whole package. I sent the Leupold back and got a new one that was exactly what I wanted and that’ll go up to Alaska for a camp rifle and loaner rifle. The.280 ain’t no slouch unlike the gay .270. Lol

If you're going to hunt with that long range weapon at all, and you need a range finder, I HIGHLY suggest the Leica Geovid 10x42 HDB's! Fantastic for long range glassing, yet fully ballistic capable binocs. I love mine! One of the best personal investments I've ever made for gear.

You can’t go wrong with Leica.

I’ve got a Leupold rangefinder but if I upgrade I’ll look at the Sig Kilo since the Leica has a 5 or 10 year (don’t remember exactly) warranty on their electronic optics. Leica binos are top of the line and hard to beat.

I use Zeiss scopes on my Sako and Leupolds on everything else.

My binoculars are the made in Germany Minox. Schmidt and Bender makes the glass for the upper end Minox. I’ve been very pleased with them and are as clear as my eyes can discern. My buddy has Swarovski and they’re also great but pretty heavy. The Swarovski have an edge in clarity but not by enough for me to justify the extra cost. If money was no object I’d go with Leica binoculars and Sig Kilo rangefinder. The technology in glass and coatings have come a long way in the last decade.

I just bought a Vortex Ranger 1500 with angle compensation for hunting and it's very nice. Can't beat the unconditional, transferable lifetime warranty on all Vortex products. Between my scopes, spotter, ranger and bino's - I've moved almost everything over to Vortex. I did just also pick up a Burris red-dot for my War Pig, but only because all of the Vortex RD's were sold out and on back order.

War Pig is going to stand hunt next year. War Pig demands to be fed. If for no other reason than chits and giggles. The anti's say "what do you need that for? You can't hunt with it!" and I say "oh really?". The pics alone with be worth all of the salty tears and ensuing hilarity.

RvW - I'm a Zeiss fan as well. I've had 2 Diascope spotters and they've been fantastic! Currently I have a 85MM Diascope, and it's great for the open country we hunt.

When the boy was 11yo, he saved his money and bought a close-out Zeiss 4.5x14 for his Mdl 70 pre-64 .308 that was my great-grand fathers. He's 4-4 with it on deer (3-3 on bucks), including a 406 yard shot. It's clearer than my VX-3's.

I've heard the Sig RF has quite the following. For me, I wanted one less thing in my pocket or around my neck. I think the Leica warranty on my Binocs is 5 years. Everyone prefers lifetime warranties, but I decided if they were going to chit the bed they'd prob do it within 5 years? It's been 3 years now??? and now probs yet except the eye cups crack. Leica has been great about replacing them, and I think I figured out why they crack. I have a pretty good supply of them now.

i had a used pair of Leica small binos years ago, someone stole them like alot of things i owned... i didnt pay much for them but they were pretty nice... i have an old pair of US Navy Bausch and Lomb binos here somewhere, bit and heavy tho, but see pretty well...

im actually really looking forward to driftin's suggestion of the SWFA scope, and yes RvW, they are basically the old Tasco SS scopes, i have seen those before, but never used them... i had an old Tasco a long time ago that could possibly have been one, but i broke the crosshairs on it, and it was my fault entirely... never even used it as i had nicer ones, but i still regret breaking them....

ive owned Weavers, i had a few Simmons nearly 20 years ago that were very good scopes, now, they are not built as well, ive had 2 Redfields, fairly nice scopes, some others mixed in but never any Leupolds or higher up the food chain...

ill use the sh!t out of the SWFA then save up to get something different if i choose to, Kahles, Zeiss, Swaro, Leupold, Nightforce, Leica, S&B, US Optics, all on my radar, but i want one that will work for me, not a 3k dollar spotting scope....

i started thinking about what driftin said about "letting it sit", and he is right... i watch sh!t on TV or whatever and say, "i can do that", which i can if i wanted to, but is it practical? how many places in WA can you shoot 3k yards? not many, but there are several that you can shoot 600-1k....

bascially i started telling myself that if i go crazy and put some telescope sized scope on this thing, and dont use it, it would be like dumping a bunch of money on a blown small block setting it up for drag racing, then doing burnouts in the front yard on 85 octane gas and never going to the track....

so with that said, driftin, thanks for bringing me back down to practical, i can use the money on other things that will help me become a better shooter, rather than being a better spotter....

Usually a good opening move on any endeavor. Keep it up....

If your new rifle has a stock with an aluminum bedding block, it's likely an H&S Precision. Their blocks have a slight V-shape to them so they contact the action about 30 degrees either side of vertical and work well. The stock's lug well is liberal so make sure when you tighten her down, you stand things up on the butt so the lug is as far aft as gravity will take it without inducing any stresses. Hopefully, the lug is against the block without binding the two action bolts. Bedding the action, like most things, makes for warm-fuzzies. Before you go globbing Acra-Glas Gel or J-B Weld all over, read the beginning sentences above. Work up loads as-is and she if she shines after eliminating variables. If you still want to bed it, there are things you will need to have handy, and to know, to preclude having to hog things out with a Dremel and starting over....

To nip things in the bud when mounting new scope bases/rail, do it dry first to "time" screw revolutions without base/rail first and then with base/rail second. If you get less revolutions on round 2, that particular screw is screwing you. Watch the forward ring/rail mount screw closest as they can oft run into the barrel shank, sit proud and really mess with accuracy. Pull the bolt and oggle inside of receiver to make sure none are proud. Shave threads as required. Only then dope the base/rail screws with blue Lok-Tite and torque the bases/rail down. I also put a *thin* layer of marine grease or Frog Lube paste on the two mating surfaces of the receiver/rail to keep water out.

Set scope's forward/aft location for your comfort/eye box with rings as far apart as possible without bumping the objective bell or parallax ring. To get the scopes vertical crosshair perfectly plumb, a low budget way is to use a quality torpedo level set transverse to the base rail with the rifle swaddled and set up just snug in vise. The flat erector turret on the SWFA will provide a similar perch for the level when you set it in the saddle. Snug rings up a tad and verify all is good to your eyes before doping screws and torquing, making sure to keep the gaps in the rings even from side-to-side. Oggle things again before letting LokTite cure.

In regard to the $pendy optics mentioned above in this thread, how many have erectors that match the reticle for obvious benefits? How many have focus/parallax adjustment down to 10 paces? How many are proven to flawlessly track/RTZ after stupid amounts of MOA/mil inputs? Of those that do, how many are less than 5x the cost of the humble SWFA?

By a mile....

As I said, I like to see, but I've noticed one hugely important thing after watching videos of reviews, and the one you posted... They are all older gentlemen, and the majority of them wear glasses, and they seem to have no problem with seeing and hitting targets with that scope...

I'm really excited about it actually, I can buy it right now, but saving 50 bucks is saving money so, I can wait a week and a half more...

My stock is a Bell and Carlson, it has an aluminum bedding block as well, here are some specs from Remington...


https://www.remington.com/rifles/bolt-action/model-700/model-700-long-range

From the looks of it, that scope will not be on sale.. basically only Mil dot, and MOA-Quad scopes are going to be on sale not the Mil-Quad...

I have a chance to buy a 16x42 Mil-Quad with SWFA tactical rings, sun shade, and caps for 250 right now...

Pass or get it? If it's too much I can always sell it and get the other one... Looks to be in excellent condition, was on a 700 7mm....

This is from a guy that is downtown, not SWFA..

i ended up getting it for 240, everything is perfect... rings are good, sun shade is nice, and HOLY SH!T is that glass good for this price of a scope... i can see individual rocks in the concrete from 10 feet away when you adjust the focus..., and at distance, wow, clear as day....

that reticle is going to be FUN, although, after some reading, i have a couple questions....

i ordered that 40 MOA base, you cant buy the 40 anywhere else than EGW and they are 75 bucks, other places have the 20 MOA ones down to around 35-40 bucks... but EGW is cheaper than Nightforce at 120...

am i going to be able to zero this at 100 yards? i usually do ammo testing at that distance, which i suppose isnt really nessecary to zero it, but from what ive read, 40 is pretty high, some guns cant zero at 100, they shoot 10 inches high...

this scope does have a huge travel differential than alot of other scopes however, so should i be OK?

base should be here by Saturday or Monday i think, so i should possibly be able to shoot it by next weekend.... that will also give me some time to fully sight in the Ruger i put together and take it to the Peil shoot at TSC next weekend, or the following... i found what ammo shoots well, so i can now focus on messing with the scope....

i can tell you one thing tho, if that scope which has worked fine on the 10/22 ever breaks or what not, im replacing it with a SWFA, what an excellent quality scope for that kind of money....

So, didja do what I suggested regarding a 6 or 10X for a 40 moa rail? A man's got to know both his and an erector's limitations.

You'll figure it out at some point....

It's not just "focusing" down to 10 paces, read up on parallax.

im trying to follow you, but you sometimes confuse me

i got the 16X because its mint, it was 240, came with the rings that are very nice tactical rings, the sunshade, which is 20 bucks itself, and the lens caps which are 15, so i figured i got a great deal.. warranty is transferable, no receipt, ect, so i just couldnt pass on it... if i dont like it, or it messes with what im doing, like i said, ill sell it and get a different one... but as of right now, im perfectly happy with it, the thing is amazing, and honestly, i dont know why ive always went right past them when looking at scopes...

i ordered the 40 MOA rail because you had recommended it, and i watched a video from the same guy from the video i posted that explains using rails and getting the full adjustments (moa) out of the scope... the videos i watched about the SWFA, usually they are putting in around 145-150 MOA on the turrets, his Nightforce ATACR, is 120.... so im sure this will have no problem doing what i want it to do...

the rail should be here tomorrow according to USPS tracking...

i ordered a 30MM 12 way folding anti cant bubble level, i had an Amazon gift card i needed to use, so i only ended up paying 25 bucks for it...

the problem im having now, is ammo... most of these places are just hunting every day bullsh!t rounds, with some upper end ones mixed in... Sportsmans has 2 match grade rounds, the Hornady's that i got, and some Atomic that uses Sierra Match King bullets, i called Welchers, and they do have some Hornady Precision Hunter, in 200 grain ELD-X so tomorrow im going to grab a box of them... i may grab a box of Winchester Ballistic Silvertips, i have always had good results with them, so i figure its worth a try in this as well...

cant find Bergers for some reason....