this is the video...

Why not reload?

Slow down and think. Read what I suggested again from the start. Optic, Rings, Rifle & Bullet have to work together as a unit.

Consider what happens to a given scope's FOV and erector limitations when X's go up from the recommended 6X to 10X to your choice of a 16X. Now consider that with 40 moa of erector travel required by your rail. While you're likely OK and it is advantageous to have extra *up* in the bank, a 250 pace zero and 10 mils on the reticle alone will get you way past what most ever need....

As for factory fodder and components, Hornady's are generally the most for the least. YMMV.

After you establish a zero, pull the elevation turret off, *lightly* dress the two o-rings with silicone grease and drop a rubber hose washer into the revealed space on top of the scope. Align the "0" and gently press the turret back into place. If the bottom of the turret contacts the top of the hose washer, all is well and you can snug down the hex screws. Don't farm tighten them. The turrets are aluminum and the threads can be stripped. If you don't make contact, add another washer and repeat. What did you just do?

set a zero stop... so that i can always know where zero is without having to remember what revolution on the turret i am...

because any down cranks after zero is established, is fvcking worthless....


i actually watched this video a couple years ago, thank you for reminding me driftin....

got my rail today, damn that was fast... excellent service, will be ordering more stuff from EGW...

not really feeling the bipod, i do like them, but i may go the non-pod route this time, not sure yet....

the trigger, im not sure about either... i have an 8 ounce trigger on my .22 (i think its there, or its 13, cant remember) so this one feels a little stiff, but, its still leaps and bounds nicer than most stock triggers out there, so i will shoot it first... if i dont like it, i will get a Calvin Elite and be done with it.... i suppose i could just go with a base Timney as well... ill shoot this first and see how i like it, it is crisp, thats for sure...

still waiting on the bubble level, should be here next week...

have to go get a gun case right now, so ill see ya'll later...

thanks for your help and insight on this guys, i appreciate it....

got a nice Plano Max case for 95 bucks... they look good together...

BS has a few more Super Chickens than the entire population of Puyallup.

As I mentioned before, the wider the rings are spaced, the more able to resist lateral forces from fumble fingers and other Mother Murphy events. Looks like you could easily go one slot forward and one aft. YMMV.

When you mounted the rings, did you scoot them forward against the pic rail slots? Think about what forces are at play when you pull the trigger. Give some thought to the sequence of torquing down the ring/base fasteners too so you don't induce any stresses.

As I said in my first post, Big Green triggers are easily tuned to personal preferences.

So what do you need to do before you trip the trigger when shooting off of a bipod?

i left the rings as they were when i got the scope, mainly because im going to put that level on there and id like it to go directly behind the rear ring, so i feel that i should be about dead nuts with the placement and distance before anything hits, it should work perfectly , i suppose i could scoot the first ring forward a notch... do i need a bubble level? probably not, but it may help me so im going to try it.... i dont have a torque driver , yet, i may get one, they arent too spendy, but i had an incident last night that cost me a couple hundred dollars so i just went by "eye/feel", and didnt "farm tighten" them as you said, they are for sure snug, but not the creaking noise you get from over tightening... i also used the blue 242 Loctite on the rail screws....

ill mess with the trigger, it actually isnt all that bad, but after using the one on the .22 most triggers feel off now... i guess thats what happens when you start upgrading... ill use it as is now and see how it goes...

every other bipod that i have bought, has been a Harris, except this one and the cheapo i got for the .22 that actually works great... this is a Blackhawk and to me the springs arent that stiff, but maybe its just the weight of the rifle and my mind messing with me....

ive always slightly leaned into them, very slightly, not putting a ton of pressure on them, but enough to be firm... is that correct?

like i said, ill sh!t can it if i have to and shoot off a bag if need be....

i went to the damn Walmart today to get the hose washers, the ones they had are the shittly black ones, they have little tabs on the side of them as well, in his video they are eraser colored, so i went to the plumbing section and bought a 42 peice Peerless set for plumbing, it has tons of sh!t in there, including a few different sized washers...

after watching Sticks video, this one started automatically, there is a guy that actually makes the things, do you think its worth getting them? they seem pretty precise....

Or, are you saying that I need to make sure the gun is level when shooting from a bipod? If so, that level will really help me...

Again, slow down a tad on some things and think. One hose seal will likely get you there. If not, 2 will do. Thin nylon washers with the same ID/OD can be had at any hardware store if you want to get precise for far le$$ than what you are considering. Highly unlikely that you'll ever use all the "up" available to you on the platform you now have. YMMV.

Yes, push into a bipod for a number of reasons. Similarly, I don't own one.

Push some quality fodder through it to see what's what. I'm off to tend to other things.

i will be snit, im just not ready at this point so im going to run factory match ammo through it for now... maybe i will get lucky...

your right driftin, i noticed something today...

the bubble level is a 12 way, that doesnt matter much, but if i were to put it on the back of the scope like i wanted, it will hit the rear bell, or the front scope ring... sure, i could put it "up" but t creates a snag point... i also noticed that the rear rings, sit forward from regular scope mounts, id rather have it further back, ill put the scope bubble in front, and it can fold forward along the tube... problem solved...

now.... im not liking the distance of the scope that i have to put my head "forward" on the stock... i cant move the scope back any further, the bell will hit....

a friend of minei went to school with, on FB posted some truely impressive rifles on my photo, and i started looking at that, and others, are or is it just rings? or are they cutting the front of the rails off to move the scope back?

Ok, I moved the rear ring back, went forward a tad and semi snugged them and the scope was canted for some reason...

So I took it to sportsman's and had them level it (I couldn't find one of the 50 torpedo levels I have), and he torqued them for me at 18 in/lbs...

About right correct?

They also bore sighted it for me so I should be good to go this week...

Out of curiosity, I take it that you do not own a lapping bar, CDI torque female hex drive (or similar) and something like a Wheeler level? These are BASIC smithing tools that all wanna-be gun smith/owners should own and know how to use.

There was a reason why it was canted - what was that reason, or did they not tell you?

Man, and to think got I razzed on by Sol Dunce for not using a multi-axis cnc machine to make my own receivers, parts, as well as to forge and mill my own barrels. I can't even imagine taking a rifle in to anywhere to mount a scope and bore sight it for me. Ugh.

PS. You get 4 rounds to zero your rifle. First two rounds are to see where the boolit hits the paper and to confirm all bolts and screw are secured in place. You should be happy with the grouping on these two shots and proof that all is tight and well with the rifle and scope.

Since you've listened to Driftin', you've already done your JBM homework and know exactly how many clicks on the dials are needed to make the adjustments to hit your calculated target point at zero from whatever sight in range you are using.

(I normally zero my rifles at 200 or 250 and sight in at 50 only because I don't have to walk as far to set my target.)

Second boolit confirms that you can count clicks at where your paper is standing.

Third boolit hits your second boolit. Loosen the little hex nuts on the dials, set to 0, re-tighten and you're good to go.

Done. Tell us how you do on your 4 boolits. No cheating!

Any more shootin' and you're just doing BigStick a disservice by "breaking in" your rifle.



My last Leopold scope wouldn't take the beloved M1 turret, so I got my free CDS turret from them. It's pre-set for yardage out to 800 or so and not MOA like the M1. Easier on the eyes for those that can't read a chart taped to the side of a stock I guess. Hey, it was free!

no, i dont own any of those... i was going to buy the Wheeler fat wrench this week... they used a Wheeler level there to level it, and no they didnt tell me, but i didnt need them to, it canted because when tightening the screws, it will turn the scope as the rings start to grip... basically i wasnt paying attention, i thought that the way i was doing it, it would work fine, but it didnt, i didnt have alot of time, so i just brought it with me and had them do it really quick...

ive never had that issue before, but i also have never used scope rings with 3 screws on each side.... that could have been the issue i overlooked....

having it sighted tho, im very happy... the guy that had this on his rifle, was using bases i think, and 0 MOA at that... after they zeroed it at 50, i looked at the UP/DOWN turret, and its almost all the way down to the bottom, which is a good thing... im only going to go UP, so now i litterally have ALL of the up the scope can generate, now i see what driftin was talking about "going into the next area code", i should have well over 100 Mils of travel, the scope advertises at 100, but every single person ive seen with one, shows 145+... thats alot of elevation...

i should be going with someone from here this week, a friend of mine wants to go soon up in the mountains as well, might be tannerite time....

4 should be sufficient, if all goes well...

speaking of "breaking in", the majority of my rifles that i have bought, i got them used from friends or stores, so ive never had to "break in" a barrel, except for the M77 .338 Win Mag i had, but i didnt own that gun for long so...

should i break this in the old 1 shot, patch/solvent, 1 shot, patch/solvent, ect? or should i just shoot it?

thats always a highly debated topic, but im not shooting deer at 100 yards, so if i need to do something different, i want to do it right and not spend a bunch of money on things i dont need... Andy once told me that more people damage their barrels cleaning them, than actually doing any good for the rifle, which i can fully understand, so should i be buying a bore guide and whatnot? i got a snake for the 10/22 which works for what i did with it, but they aint cheap....

I've seen that, I show everyone that lol...

But, was that rifle never fired? Or was he just doing a funny video?

He has more recent ones shooting the ruggedness of the SWFA scope, doing the same thing...

Are you saying just shoot it?

Hmmm....Paker is channeling Bigstick.
Weird thread.

Apparently Gale McMillan says it's a myth... So this time, I'm just going to shoot it...

Worst thing that can happen is I will replace the barrel with a Lilja or Shilen...

Grabbed a box of Hornady precision Hunter with 200 grain ELDX bullets... Heavier can be better, sometimes...