picked up a new Remington 700 LR M40, in .300 Win Mag.. 26 inch heavy barrel, X Mark Pro trigger..

i need to get a rail, rings, and some good glass, im hoping i can get away with not spending 1500-4000 on a scope, but who knows...

will mess with the X Mark trigger before i decide if im gonna change it to a Jewell or Timney...

will be getting a Kohntrol clamp on brake as well...

this one will be interesting when im done with it, thats for sure....

I was with you until you said clamp-on brake.
At least you didn't say "break" like Paker.

The Ross Schuler brake is a little less offensive than a strappie.

Yeah I've decided I'm not going that route... If I want a brake I'll do it right the first time....

That looks nice, there's one from one company that's says it reduces recoil by 65 percent... I don't "need" one, but I'd like to be able to shoot longer.. I'm not a kid anymore, I used to put 80 rounds out of my 700 7mm, but I was like 19 at the time... 80 out of a .300 in one day you'll be hurting without a brake....

Don't go by what the company propaganda says.
Go by what the end users say.

Sideblast and uselessness for hunting are factors as well.
You can have a "thread protector" made for hunting.
Machinist/gunsmith will know to indicate on the bore axis for proper thread cutting.
Machists have reported that sometimes thread cutting can cause the muzzle to swell.
Therefore, choose the largest thread diameter that is practical.

Nice shooter. You could Mag-Na-Port it instead of installing a traditional brake.
It also looks like it's begging for a DBM install.

Is that a Bell and Carlson stock? Is the barrel free floated and bedded? If not, you'll need to do that too...

Scott, thats the plan, 600-1000 is basically what im aiming for, there is this guy from Australia on youtube that shoots a stock barrel and action 700 LR to nearly 2500 yards... hes obviously got a great scope, but theres only 1 modification he did, and it was putting a weird 90 ish angle plate on the butt with a screw for leveling... its amazing actually....



DD, yeah im going to do the research first, im in no hurry for a brake but i would like one... this is one site i have been looking at...

http://www.remington700rifle.com/Accessories.php

Nick, yes, its a Bell and Carlson, and yeah i was thinking that as well yesterday, im going to shoot it first then decide, theres a few options but they arent cheap... there is the Mag Pull kit, but it needs to go into the Mag Pull X Hunter stock, i think its around 150 for the kit, but it will only fit the MP stock, i held one of the rifles fitted with it, loved the feel, but the barrel length was 20 inches and i wanted longer, if i shoot this and like it, i will keep the stock and get a kit... theres one from the link that i posted above, but its 220 and only comes with a 3 round mag, a 10 rounder is another 70 bucks... theres also a company called Kwik Klip, that the kit is 120, and comes with a 4 round mag, and 10 rounders are 55 bucks...

gonna shoot it then decide... i think im gonna buy a cheap scope that i was going to get for the 10/22 (8-32x56) and run some ammo through it to see what it likes, then put the scope on the .22 and get the good one for this rifle... people have said they used them on .338 Lapua Mags without issue, so maybe i will get lucky and be able to not break it... if it breaks, ill get a warranty, hopefully, and start over... if not, great....

oh, Nick, yes is floated, it has an aluminum bedding block, but some have said to glass them, ill decide on that later as well, but its in the front of my list for sure if needed...

Your rifle has a "BDL" hinged floor plate which make unloading very easy.
Since your not fighting the Hun in Belgium in 1917 you don't need to clip or mag load a bolt action rifle.

correct, i had a BDL and its the same plate... i just figured it would be nice to be able to have more rounds, but more rounds equals more weight, more money(that could be spent on a trigger or whatnot), and more money down range faster in some cases...

im gonna go look at a scope i was looking at right now, it was on sale but im not sure of the magnification, if anything, ill wait and think about this one...

https://www.opticsplanet.com/sightron-siii-ss-8-32x56mm-side-focus-riflescope.html

i can also find it for cheaper than that price, reviews are good as well on multiple sites, but in that price range, i can get a Nightforce (lower end), or even a Vortex... not gonna rush this part thats for sure....

SWFA fixed 6 or 10x MQ (NOT the MOA model. They'll be on sale on Tax Day).
EGW 40 moa 700 L/A rail.
Burris XT Signature 30mm pic. rings, medium.
Adjust the X-Mark down to 3# and set TU/OT to minimum & silicone pins. Bang the butt on the floor to make sure it won't AD. You'll be happy.
Forget the loudener. If recoil is a concern, you should've checked your compensatory urges and gone -08 parent, Creedmore or BR case. Any of the latter would handily get you to your 600-1k goal for ringing steel, punching paper or tipping over NA cloven-hoofed critters. For those that savvy, less is often more....

Could all be a waste if you just launch a box Big Green factory fodder with beach ball B/C's and then let it sit.....

One last thing--







You're welcome.

thanks Driftin, quick question, why such a low power scope for that distance? you are talking about the one with the mil dots correct?

ive always used 12-16 power even at 100 yards, i just like to see i guess, but im curious as to why a low fixed power scope would be good for long ranges, ive actually never owned a fixed power scope besides a 4x for a pellet gun...

they do look like good scopes, and the review done on snipercentral looks promising...

the first box of ammo i got was Hornady Match with 178 grain ELD bullets, im going to grab a couple more boxes before i shoot, id like some Bergers, and some Noslers as well, but id like to stay in the match category for factory ammo for what im doing....

Katies dad is giving us a Dillion 650 progressive, and after talking with Randy (Big Daddy) i settled on the .300, was going to go with a 7MM again, but he was right, there are far more bullets to select from in .30 than in 7MM, and my brother owns a Savage 10 .300 mag, so we can reload for just 1 round, not multiple rounds....

for now atleast...

the video, is that a replacement firing pin he is talking about? or is it something that you do to your pin?

oh and recoil isnt a concern, im fine with a .300, they have matches at the Sportsmans club here, and i was going to maybe try a couple this summer, they are 600 yard matches, but i was told theres a couple guys there with .50s that win alot... which is why i was going to go with a higher power scope, so that i could see where im hitting and go for the same mark.... i just dont know how man rounds they fire, if they fire 100 rounds a match, then thats gonna be brutal... Randy runs 212 gr ELD for his 1000 yard gun, at 3200+ FPS, so im sure unbraked, that think kicks like a clydesdale....

i also would like to take it to 2000 if i ever get a chance, which again is why i was thinking an 8-32x50 or the likes....

i know you know your [Bleeeeep!] tho, so i appreciate everything...

you too DD...

The old rule is 1X per 100 paces. Seems to work for most applications. 6X if you need FOV for moving targets (hunting). 10X for grins. Anything over 12X starts to run into optical limitations unless you really start to spend hugely. Fixed optics are far more stalwart than variables. The SWFA's have had ham-fisted brutes crank 1,000's of moa/mils into the erector with a flawless RTZ and drown 'em in frigid rivers without fail. They track equally well with stupid amounts of "up" on the erector. Many of the spendy Euro optics can't hang. 10 mils on the glass and 20 or 40 moa on a rail will get you to the next ZIP Code. Just dial up JBM ballistics and add a LRF. It's so easy to connect POA/POI dots even you know who could do it..... *grin*

ELD's are javelins not beach balls. Good guess. There may be more bullet options at 30 cal. but they get pretty heavy for a given B/C with the requisite increase in case volume and costs. Savvy? If not, play with the JBM calculator cited above, comparing your 300 cannon to the diminutive 6BR squirting fast-twist 0.6-ish B/C's for grins. It's physics. Set the output to "mils" to correspond to the recommended optic's MQ reticle. There are advantages to going toward a 6mm as it is far more forgiving on the shoulder and wallet. I don't trust the opinions of those that shoot BMG's.... *grin*

A Blue progressive is better for high volume pistol ammo or 5.56. A good single stage along with a Redding powder thrower/dies will handily spit out loads of quality rifle fodder for most uses. Take a gander at the Forster Co-Ax.

Go to Greg's website and look up his current pricing for the bolt bush fix. Send him your bolt with a PMO for the work and you'll have it back inside 2 weeks. He has a dedicated lathe set up for the work. If it wasn't obvious in the vid, he bushes your bolt face and turns down your OEM pin. He also has his own pins. Again, visit his website and wander around.

Have fun popping primers....

that was the scope i saw when you brought it up, i actually really like that reticle...

you also gave me another idea, Katies dad used to shoot BR matches, and has a 6BR rifle, he doesnt shoot it anymore, and is moving soon possibly, im going to see what he is going to do with it, and maybe try to buy it... he won with it so its a good setup...

with that said, im sure he also has some nice fixed power scopes, alot of those guys run 25X Leupolds and such, but they are expensive...

she should be talking to him today, and ill find out some more details on it...

how much will the scope be you posted when its on sale, any idea? i almost bought it last night actually....

Over the past several years, they can be had for $249 on Tax Day and Black Friday.

Patience, Grasshopper....

And after you have the chance to push a few dozen rounds down range from your 300 and a BR, tell me again which one you'll shoot the most....

i honestly dont mind recoil much, i was going to go with the 6.5 Creed but i pulled a round out of a box, and immediately thought, "im going to get bored with this", which is a problem i have with rifles, if they are too "weak", i tend to end up selling them... so this time i went with something i was familiar with, im sure it will be ok...

ill grab that SWFA in a couple weeks when it goes on sale, the reviews and what you have said, sounds like a pretty amazing scope for the money, they advertise 100 MOA but all the reviews that ive seen, say people are getting 140-150 MOA from just the scope alone, pair that with a 40 MOA rail, thats 190 MOA, the median range drop for the .300 at 1000 yards is around 145 inches, so at 145 MOA, the scope and rail you suggested im well within the range....

i still do want a high power scope, but now i can get a good one and still shoot the thing before hand... i was going to get a used scope, so i went and looked at one at the pawn shop on Saturday, and immediately changed my mind, im not buying a used scope unless its from someone i know, those idiots at the store could have dropped it, banged it, or whatever, so no go....

then, i saw the sample list on SWFA.com, and thats where i should have been looking for the "used ones" it looks like... the prices seem to be pretty good for great glass there... im going to save little more, maybe get something even nicer than this, but this looks to be a good buy at a later date...


https://samplelist.com/zeiss-5-25x50-conquest-hd5-rifle-scope-demo-b-5.html

like i said earlier, i like to see, so driftin, would these 2 be bad choices?

same company, same reticle, just 16x or 20x, basically same scope, just higher power.... and they are the exact same price...

https://swfa.com/swfa-ss-20x42-tactical-30mm-riflescope-3.html

https://swfa.com/swfa-ss-16x42-tactical-30mm-riflescope-3.html