From a section of my book manuscript:
I will tell you why I love the superbraids. ...
The inherent advantages of these modern superbraid lines is fairly well known. They are very thin, very strong, float when you want them to, and don't stretch. The type of fishing done and amount of overall fishing skill are factors in whether this line will be best for your type of fishing or not. I know you have the experience and abilility Snagly; but I don't know about the techs for all those exotics you fish for. When you are after anadromous salmonids these lines really shine in a lot of stiuations. The extremely thin diameter per given pound line test allows for a mainline that will cut down deeper thru water currents with less weight (particularly good for backbouncing) and allows diving plugs to get deeper per amount of line out and deeper overall. These are great advantages. This stuff also floats, making for a good float fishing mainline.
Specifically:
* Backbouncing - This has made a great beneficial advantage for backbouncing rivers for chinooks (cohos and steelhead also). For example, I can backbounce the larger than average Clackamas R. (Cowlitz/NF Lewis too) when the river is up and flowing normally during the fall and winter seasons, typically with 30 lb. or 40 lb. thin braid, and only need 3 oz. of lead; where with 20 lb. or 25 lb. mono mainline in the same water I would need 5 oz. to get to tapping bottom. Also, with no stretch the braid picks up and taps the lead so much easier and with less rodtip and bait movement. The fish prefer a smaller jigging motion when backbouncing eggs or shrimp, rather than a larger swath to get the lead picked up. You can also detect bites much better with the no stretch braids. This also applies to drift fishing. It picks up the lead or slinky over the rocks with less rod movement, feels the bite better, and sets the hook quicker and deeper. What fishers need to know is to just set the hook with a good quick wrist snap; not try to yank the fish into the boat during the set (with no stretch this can yank the hook out). I use low stretch Maxima line for leaders - Chameleon when there is color in the water and Ultragreen when clearish. I also use lighter line for lead droppers, various lengths for backbouncing and a couple inches for driftfishing, so that the lead breaks off and leaves the braid free. If you have a good fast action taper graphite rod with flexable tip and reasonable reflexes, the lack of stretch will not be a negative factor in landing fish - in fact, you will land more because it's stronger and can turn a fish's head and direction better.
* Backtrolling plugs - This is where I am sure many guys will disagree with me, but I love the thin braids for plugging. The downside is that there is no line stretch to absorb the shock of real hard hits. But again, if you have a proper flexing rodtip and leave the drag set moderately you won't be losing fish. And I will say again, the hook(s) are usually set deeper with the braid. Of course the big advantage here is the braid's extremely thin diameter. If I am to backtroll a relatively short slot in my sled or driftboat, I will have my plug deeper with the necessary shorter amount of line I can get out. If I have a long deeper chinook slot (like I love to fish for Clack springers) the braid will get the plug the deepest, regardless of how much mono mainline you would let out by comparison. I tie on the smallest barrel swivel that is adequate for the size fish I am targeting onto the superbraid mainline and then about 40" to 50" of Maxima leader to the other end of the swivel. I then tie on a wire snap on the business end of the leader. I can quickly change plugs, as I have already taken the stock wire snap off of them and pretuned them. I can also clip on a clear 20' Jet Planer diver or small piece of lead onto the upper end of the swivel for really deep holes. I can also use this same rig to switch to Kwikfish or spinners/spoons. It's a versatile and very effective rigup.
* Float fishing - The obvious advantage of the braids here is that they float, making it easier to mend the mainline to keep slack to a minimum. And since you will still have some slack, the no stretch property of these lines comes in again during a bobber down hookset - it does it faster and better than mono.
* Longevity - The braids are much longer lasting against the elements of moisture and sun than mono! And because of the thin diameter you can get much more of it on your reels. That comes in handy when a 'freight train' fish runs you down to the next hole faster than you can follow. And it leaves enough line to occassionally trim a few feet off the end to maintain maximun strength.
* Negatives - The biggest downside is when you snag up these braids and can't get them loose. You may have to cut them as close to the snag as you can get. This is a very small portion of the time because they are strong enough to pull free of most snags, or to break the dropper or leader. And if you use proper techs for specific water you won't snag up much. Also, some contend that the braids are less abrasion resistant. I just don't think this is much of a factor at all. They are just so strong that one that has gotten a bit frayed is usually still stronger than your leader; even the next few leaders. And you can get so much more of it on your reel that you can periodically cut off a few feet from the end and retie to full strength, again and again. Some guys contend it's a bit harder to get backlashes out of braids. I find them easy to cast, and on occassion of a backlash they are about as fun as mono to get out
. You also need to wind the braids on level wind spools firmly so as to lessen the chance of this thin slippery stuff 'wedging' in the spooled line; rarely a prob when you do that. Isn't much of a factor on spinning reels.
* Note: No, I'm not a superbraid line salesman. I am a believer in these line's advantages, and I take advantage of them!
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Steve (RT)
www.amatobooks.com (STS)
"For every fish there is a hook"
I think
Maybe not
[ 08-30-2001: Message edited by: RT 1 ]