How do you make a rubber tube/swivel/pencil lead rig for drift fishing?
&
Where's a good source to purchase these items?

(I'm trying to reduce my "downtime" while fishing ....tying knots after breakoffs/snags)

Thanks!

What I do leave the tag of main line and slide a piece of hollow core lead on and crimp it with plers. Faster that any thing else I have found.

I'll generally use a size 7 snap for my lead cinches. I usually use about a 1 inch piece of tubing speared by the snap and then close it. If using a good quality snap swivels (Rosco is what I'll use, they are marketed under different brand names, but all stamped with 'USA'), I'll attach my mainline to one end of the swivel and the leader itself to the snap. I wouldn't dare do this with the twisted brass swivels, they don't have the durability that the good ones do. I like to attch this way so that you don't have the snap portion dangling ... it tends to twist up on your line more often than the way I usually do it.

Most shops usually carry it in our area, but Cabela's might be a good option for you ... I'm sure you could do a search to find bulk tubing on line.

BW's method does work fine with one major drawback ... the surgical tubing method does allow for much easier changing of the weight, which for me is important as we're usually on the move

I never thought that was a draw back. It gave me a reason to retie my knots. I am real bad about checking my swivles knots and hooks otherwise.

I use the .250 diameter balls pushed into the black tubing. I use a cheap twisted swivle, and cut off the barrel portion. Slide a cheap swivel on the main line and clip onto the weight, tie on on of Bob's quality swivles and snap onto a pretied leader with a quality barrel swivle on it.

All of the tying and weight making is done prior to fishing.

You only have to tie one knot to put on a new rig. If you break off the leader, you just snap on a new one.

The othere advantage is that everyone on the boat can have the same weight on when boondogging, keep the tangle factor down.

Try using a float and you will cut your downtime in 1/2. Also, when bottom bouncing try a slinky tied in line. By that I mean tie one end of a slinky/swivel to mainlaine and the opposite slinky/swivel to your leader. This is close to snagproof. Not as sensetive as rubber and lead,, but you can adjust to the feel of it quickly.

How about some pictures guys/gals....that would be awesome

Paul

I went through all the hastle with the tubing and changed to this.


I just pinched down the end of the lead flat and poked a hole through with my egg scissors and hooked it to the main swivel. It stayed on just fine. We added the chain swivel for line twist and to protect the knot to the leader. With the chain swivel you use less lead and protect the start of the leader from the lead bouncing. But those chain swivels are expensive so we tryed the small barrel swivel and it worked just as good. Hope that helps.

Or you could use lead masters. Pliers that punch a hole in the lead, like described above. Attach to snap and rig sliding, or solid.

FFF you've never busted off a fish w/ that snap swivel?

FFF

Do you use that setup in low and clear water conditions.......it seems big to me? More power to ya if it works I just tend to go less conspicuous.

I use slinky weights. I have found I lose less wieghts that way.
Just my 2 cents
Paul

AuntyM: I am sure you are very sensetive. It shows from all your posts! I bet you could feel a fish pass gas anywhere near your gear. That's a compliment - I think?

Seriously, one of the reasons I love float fishing is you don't need to be a rocket scientist to "feel" a bite. If the float is adjusted correctly depth wise, the only thing that will make it dip under it a strike. Even an old liberal like me can understand that!

Thanks everyone for the very useful info! I just got through tying a bunch of egg sacks for this weekend...hope to tie into a few steelhead or trophy class brown trout!

Nothing worse than having a bunch of huge fish boiling all around you while tying on a drift weight system (not to mention shaking and trembling with excitement)...your tips will really help!

Well SpongeBob… I am no expert but this is what works for me…

If you have a lot of time on your hands (Like my fishing buddy) you could make up pre-weighed and pre-made slinky's. Made from parachute cord and lead shot. Take the para cord and a kitchen knife, light the end of the para cord on fire, blow it out and then flatten with the kitchen knife. Make sure that you have a big enough flat spot for the hole punch. Then fill the cord with lead shot to the weight you want, make several different weights (1/4, 1/2, 3/4, 1oz)... for the local waters you fish…

I use the solid lead, and start with a small piece (depending on what the water current looks like) and then add another piece to the swivel as needed. Use the pliers to flatten the lead then punch the hole, and snap it onto the swivel.

What I have found is I have less total rig bust off's with this setup, and with starting off light I don't snag up as much. If you don't get a bounce on the first pass or two then add another piece.

I was going to say just head down to “Sportco” (my local shop) but then I saw you live in NY… so I don't know where you could get the pliers… if you can't find it at you local shop's let me know and if you want to buy a pair and pay shipping I would work it out for ya!

Good Luck…!
Tight Lines...

Wabowhunter: Your slinky idea is good. But . . . the last issue of Salmon Trout Steelheader had a great article, by Dave Kilheffner, on how to mass produce slinkeys. It was an excellent piece. Also when I do mine I do NOT punch a hole in the squashed up part of the slinky. Instead, I simply put a swivel on each end. Open the swivel and poke it through the parachute cord fabric. Its kinda tricky to do with cross lock swivels, but with practice it can be done. Just my .02

Man ya'll the pics are a BIG help!!! THANK YOU!...
what about red beads and such......

Hey you guys I grabbed a a little jewel I used to use for ole Kansas river fishin. Little did I know how weel these damn things would work. The only drawback is the limit on the weight.
I can confirm the ability for these little boogers to NOT get snagged up. I casted and fished 50 to 1 compared to anglers gettin' wrapped up on a coupla rivers I fished.

I bet a supplement of a barrel sinker or the like would be real hot....so what do ya think. Buy a couple and tell me what ya think, talk about reducing setup times after a snag....


http://www.basspro-shops.com/servlet/cat...arTarget=browse

Paul

Talljeeper, Those do fish well but for the cost of two of them you could make 30 solid lead weights and not really care if you lose them.

The downfall I have with slinky's are they are not easily adaptable on the river. Burning and cutting, smashing, punching holes. You would have to have a whole handful in your pockets of different weights not knowing what the river would look like that day.

I personally use the solid lead and surgical tubing idea. I cut them about two inches long which is probably heavy enough for any river. I carry about 15 per trip. Then I cut to length. I don't start short and add. I start long and cut.

Hohwaiian, Nope the swivel has never opened. If you pinch the lead thin enough it will break off if you snag up good.

LeadThrower, yeah, with the chainswivel it is big, another reason we switched to the small barrel swivel.

WA BowHunter, I used to tie up the rig that way, but where you have your leader tied on is the only problem i had with it. With the lead bouncing around, the area where the swivel clips onto the clasp, where the leader is now, jiggles and chews up the knot. The main reason for adding the second barrel swivel.

I still like fishing with a float better.
Here chummy chummy chummy.