Guys please bare with me on this boating question because I know that I have this will be my third or fourth posts on boats.

We just got back from the Tac Dome boat show and was some very nice boats.
What do you think about the Seaswirl Striper 21?
What about their new line of Volvo Ocean Series EFI Multi-Port 4-Stroke inboards?

I love to read your comments.

Thanks

Ironhead, When you started asking about fishing boats, it sounded like you were looking for a nice little fishing boat for the Puget Sound. I know a little about them, but now that you have moved into the 20+ foot range I'm not qualified to say anything, other than they look nice. Let me know what you get....I'd love to be a deck hand when you head out for tuna!!

Iron Head,
So your the reason I couldn't use my normal handle. Iv'e been selling OMC product for 17 years and the seaswirls are a well made boat. What you're really going to love is the Volvo drive system. EFI motors are great. no choke, no warmup, better fuel economy, and smoother power band. The outdrive unit has been around since 94, merger of OMC and Volvo dirve units. You have to go to a Bravo III drive in a MC to get the same benefits as the Volvo drive (Larger gearcase, cone clutch) depending on how you dist boat load( bow heavy) you may want to consider the Duo prop though 21 is a little small to notice the benefits.

Are you in trouble now!!

They're OK, I guess.

Just kidding. I really, really like the Stripers. From what I have seen, their fit and finish is top-notch, the styling is superb, and they are well-engineered. I just wish I had the coin for that sort of boat.

ET, I want both.

Ironhead MN, you're not the guy trying to sell me that Striper at the Dome, are you?
That was exactly what he had told me.
What about the desalination unit, you know much about them?

baddawg, I am doomed.

Finegrain, I don't know how they ride, but we will find out soon. As for the price, they are below average for fishing.
Just from visual inspection they are way better built than the Arima, Bayliner Trophy, Palmer, and Campion for the same price range.
Not as solid/dense as the Whaler.
And very similiar to Grady.
I'll be doing a test drive soon.

Now it is a decision for the outboard or the inboard because I never owned neither one of this size. I was told or "Sold" on the believe that the larger 4 strokes engines are very difficult to service and maintain.
What are your opinions for the difference b/w the large inboard (Volvo) and the outboard (Yamaha/Honda 4 Strokes) of same size hp with respect to maintenance, service, efficiency, life expectincy, performace, or what ever?

Thanks.

also have been looking at that stripper model, but the wife wants the 23ft. she says bigger ig better! but the 10k price diference is tough. i like all the add on...compsite drive,vortex engine, desalinazion,fresh water flush etc. are u dealing with cope & mcpearson? trailer with disc brakes is also nice!

I/O or OB ...

Ford or Chevy? Tastes great, or less filling? Aluminum or glass? Mono or braid?

There are many passionate opinions about this. A bunch of guys will tell you that you are just plain crazy if you get a ___ instead of a ___.

Here are my passionate opinions:

1. An I/O is a pile of rust waiting to happen, whether it be Volvo or Merc.
2. An I/O is heavy, but, hey, the big 4-stroke OB's are heavy too, and they sit up higher than an I/O so are more inclined to induce teeter-tottering.
3. A modern EFI I/O will run forever, or until it turns to rust (see #1 above). Modern 4-stroke OB will probably run a nice long time as well.
4. Motorbox taking up cockpit space is a PITA. Having to fish around an OB is a PITA. Choose your poison.
5. You can fix a lot of stuff on an I/O (except the EFI) while on the water, without having to hang your a__ off the end of the boat.
6. OB's run closer to design limits than I/O's, so are more finicky WRT fuel quality and maintenance.
7. OB's are more macho and cool, for whatever reason, maybe because your boat has a big "thing" hanging off the back end :p
8. I/O is really quiet. Modern 4-stroke OB is really quiet, plus the noise-maker is farther away from the cockpit.
9. Volvo make good I/O. Merc make so-so I/O (yes, I've owned both)
10. You can plumb a cabin heater off of an I/O, can't do that with an OB.
11. OB can't build up fuel fumes in the bilge and blow up (not that I've ever actually heard of that happening).
12. You can tip an OB all the way up out of the water, can't do that with an I/O.

Be careful when it comes to looking at a boat to determine its construction. The finish work may be nice but that is not the only measure of work. I would agree that the striper is a notch above a trophy or campion, but I would disagree about it being better made than arima ( I own an arima and they are not fancy but they are very well built). As far as being on par with a grady, well they are not in same league. The grady is a lifetime boat, built to be used everyday for as long as you live. You pay a great deal for that quality, but the resale shows they are generally worth it.

I have an outboard 4 stroke and love it. I hate giving up room to I/O motor box. As far as maintance there is maintance on both. I will agree that there is more on a 4 stroke outboard than a 2 stroke, but there is also quite a bit of the same maintance on an I/O as the 4 stroke. It is easier to change the oil on my 4 than an I/O, I don't have to lay on my belly to change the plugs, and I never have to change the coolant. I have never had to work on my motor on the water (knock on wood ) but if I were in trouble I have a VHF and kicker to get me home. I am not much of a mechanic anyway so anything beyond the very minor is beyond me. Also take a look at most guys that run charters in smaller boats and they all run outboards. I am sure there are many reasons for this including sponsorships but if they were not reliable the charters are not going out and the guide loses a day of work.

good luck!

Bahhh .....

The resale shows that they have an awesome marketing thing going, nothing more. Fiberglass is fiberglass. Grady White doesn't use some secret alien technology. I spent some time on a Grady. It was nice. No nicer than Striper, Pursuit, and lots of others. OTOH, it rode like s__t in a chop. This particular boat the owner ended up selling after 5 years for MORE THAN HE PAID FOR IT. He hadn't added a thing to it, either. I guess Gradys improve with age? I don't think so. He replaced it with a Pursuit, and now says that the Pursuit is nicer than the Grady was.

Fiberglass is not the same on all boats. All the drive systems are nice. Some nicer than others. All carry a warrenty. Some better than others... Shop Shop Shop.. Test drive them to death.. Remember,, You get what you pay for..

Sorry, yes, I should have clarified that the ingredients that make up fiberglass are well-understood and somewhat standardized throughout the industry, but the techniques used to lay up a hull vary widely. I don't think Grady White is doing anything magical in their lay up techniques, though. I have seen spider cracks in Gradys, Arimas, and Trophys.

Iron head,

Iron head,

not the guy from the show ( I'm in the midwest). Just went through the same training I can tell that Finegrain has been at this game awhile, he's right on the money. Find a layout that works for you, in a dealer close to home, then go fishing. Any boat will last a lifetime if you enjoy maintenance half as much as fishing. basically, spend 1 hour of maint for 2 hours of use. as far as power goes, long life = diesel. end of story. most guides run OB's cause there easy to get off and replace.
It's funny how diiferent things are here vs there. you can't find a charter here that runs OB's, or much under 30 foot. Most guys on the GL are running Trojan F-36's that are 25 -35 years old. they look great but only due to short season and 6 months of winter to do maint.

Finegrain,
Let me pick your brain a bit using the "sales pitch" from the dealer.

They claimed that the "new and improved" Volvo Ocean Series OSI-XDP is rust prove.
Everything on the engine is stainless or brass and a special paint is used.
The drive unit is composite.

As for fishing space, we measured the area of the both boats with different drives and found that both boats have the same space. However the outboard exhibits more interference in the water.

For maintenance purposes, how do you maintain or clean the outside area of an inboard engine after saltwater use?

Thanks

The "pile of rust" I'm referring to is the engine, not the outdrive. The block, manifolds, and risers are still cast iron, so they are most definitely not "rust proof." The Ocean Series has some extra coatings on the cast iron, but those will only delay the inevitable. Closed or "freshwater" cooling is a very, very Good Thing. This is the single-most effective anti-rust step you can take with an I/O. Starter, oil pan, and risers can be replaced fairly easily. External rust on the block itself is mostly just cosmetic. If you find any, just wire-brush it clean and give it a shot of Rustoleum.

Make sure you analyze the "drain pattern" of the back of the boat, and add gutters, shields, etc. to any places where topside water drips or drains onto the engine. The bilge obviously is going to get wet, but if there is an automatic bilge pump at the lowest point, you can keep the water level down. Whenever I think of it, I pop the engine cover immediately after an outing and check for any water sitting on the manifolds, distributor, EFI, or anywhere else that ought not be wet. When cleaning up the boat after use, I flood the entire back area with the hose, to move any salt down through the bilge and out the plug. With the boat back in the garage, I prop open the transom cover and motorbox and let it all air out until the next trip.

Yes, the composite outdrive case is quite The Bomb, to be sure. I would think that there is enough years of use on these to declare victory.

Just another thought I fish east of the mountains and I got tired of winterizing the I/O every time I went out during the winter. No worries with my new 4 stroke Suzki 115 O/B. I wouldn't go back to a I/O.

ok My 2cents
#1 ( Also take a look at most guys that run charters in smaller boats and they all run outboards. I am sure there are many reasons for this)
The commercial boys Know something...The weakest drive unit made is an outdrive..for rock solid reliability run an inboard...even a V drive is stronger longer than an out drive...that said will you put enough hours on yours for it to matter? Will you be running more than 2-400 ft-lbs of torque? Most guys run 50 or so hours per year, If that will be your average then an outdrive will probably be a better choice ( have you checked the replacement cost for an outboard???) A big block v8 or the equivalent diesel is at the top end of the design limits for torque load on any outdrive,,, a small block V-8 or smaller....Not an issue...Although merc and volvo put diesels in front of their outdrives...and stand behind them the same as they do for the big blocks!

#2 (Bahhh .....

The resale shows that they have an awesome marketing thing going, nothing more. Fiberglass is fiberglass. Grady White doesn't use some secret alien technology. I spent some time on a Grady. It was nice. No nicer than Striper, Pursuit, and lots of others. OTOH, it rode like s__t in a chop. This particular boat the owner ended up selling after 5 years for MORE THAN HE PAID FOR IT. He hadn't added a thing to it, either. I guess Gradys improve with age? I don't think so. He replaced it with a Pursuit, and now says that the Pursuit is nicer than the Grady was.)

Finegrain; fiberglass in NOT fiberglass...if that was the case then there would be no blisters or acidic decay in poorly laid hulls. Google fiberglass blisters and you will get a lifetime of reading!! ...the Grady's DO have superior construction more consistent resins, I believe they are vacuum bagging their hulls, Very expensive, etc. Does that make them worth the price...I don't know but If I was going to buy a "lifetime boat" well, I would look very hard at them.
IronheadMN...Freshwater may also play a role with longevity...But you make an excellent point! If a Bayliner trophy is the boat that has the layout you like and all the features / benefits and works for you on the plus side of most of the comprimises then buy it!!!

(They claimed that the "new and improved" Volvo Ocean Series OSI-XDP is rust prove.
Everything on the engine is stainless or brass and a special paint is used.
The drive unit is composite) It may be rust proof ( brass and aluminum do not "rust" but NOTHING is corrosion proof. Like finegrain said if you are gonna be in salt, fresh water cooling is the only way to go! Something you will not find in an outboard. By the way stainless and brass can set up a pretty good galvanic current, The stainless is very noble and the brass not so much, wich basicaly means the brass goes away fast if your zincs and other corrosin inhibitors stop working. Wich is true for any drive, corrossion is a killer and if you put your boat in water(anywater) you have to learn how to fight it!
As far as the motor cover(hump) is concerned doesn't the Striper have a flush deck??? Seems like I remember all there was was a sweet gunwale with fish/ice boxes....

B) All that said Volvo has a rock solid reputation for standing behind their outdrives and the sx drive seems to be THE choice...although you only have two choices, merc or volvo...it all boils down to

Ironhead it all boils down to this. A boat is a series of comprimises, go out and run the boats you like, fish with friends on their boats and try as hard as you can to anticipate what you want. It sounds like you do not really like the outboards, but do not know much about I/O's, They have both been around forever and they are both reliable ( I think I/O's get better mileage than 2-stroke outboards, but I don't know about 4-strokes O/Bs).
Find a boat that is as close to what you think you want as you can, buy it and realize that once you have your own boat you are going to start finding shortcomings that you never even thought of before! Try to pre-emptivly compromise toward how you are going to use your boat, and know beyond the shadow of doubt that from your first trip out you will probably find something that you wish was different.... It is a vicious/wonderful circle known as owning a boat...


Now, regardless of how we feel about this or that, we ALL want to see pics of your new boat so we can oooh and ahhh over it


Johnny

IronHead,
I spent quite afew years as a fiberglass laminator and spent a year in school learning about fiberglass.Anyone that tells you that glass boats are all the same or even close to the same doesnt know alot about glass work.The Stripers are a nice boat and fall into the same class as the Trophys.Which is a step down from the Arimas,Gradys and whalers.And yes the Arimas glass work is some of the finist in the industrie there boats are more custom made than the others though.You would have a very tough time finding a better quality built boat than an Arima.

Ironhead,
I switched to an outboard (from Volvo IO in my old boat) when I bought the boat you are looking at in '97...has a 175 Ocean Pro Johnson with direct injection and a four stroke 9.9 kicker.
I'm very happy with that decision...much less maintenance and never have to winterize. Fuel economy is pretty good and plenty of power. Only disadvantage that I'd site is that the outboard at cruising speed is louder than most IO's. Agree with the earlier posts that corrosion is the enemy. My volvo had freshwater cooling but got a leak on the saltwater side of the heat exchanger that dripped on the front of the engine. Lottsa problems after that. The bellows was also a weak spot that could let saltwater into the outdrive which will ruin it fast. Didn't have 4 stroke outboards of this size in 97 but I'd sure be considering one today.....though I think one advantage of the 2 strokes is that they are designed from the prop up to be a marine engine without borrowed car parts etc. Of course this also makes them more expensive.
So I still prefer the outboard.
Happy shopping!