Well, it's coming along real good, so far. Starting to look less "green", and more like a drift boat!

Other than on the inner transom (removed) we have found -0- dry rot on this boat. All wood is good.



The exterior paint has been on there a long time, and I found that there was a base coat of white, a primer coat of gray and then at least 2 coats of the green gunk. I can't see any way that the sides (or interior) will be clean enough to stain, so I'm going to repaint the exterior as well. Not Sport Green! (Likely a dark, Forest Green on the sides, with the oak trim (gunnell rails, etc.) done in a light stain and varnished).

Last Monday, after flipping it over, my neighbor and I were removing the last of the screws/nails holding in the inner transom. We found that there had been an additional piece iof 1/4" ply secured to the bottom, with (now rusted and rotted) screws. We removed it using a pry bar, and found the original 1/2" ply in like new shape (except for the 20 screw holes which I need to fill).



Also have to replace both chines. The old ones were Oak strips, but not quite tall enough to cover the inner chine completely. I may just have to fabricate some new ones if I can't find any strips that are 14' long.

Had the pleasure of meeting a fellow PP'er (lurker) at the local hardware store, and Bill offered some great suggestions on finishing the bottom. (Thanks Bill!) Considering that this boat has been in the water many times over the last 20 years, it would not be prudent to glass over this bottom. (which would seal in any moisture and create a environment for dry rot of the worst kind.) Plans are to seal the screw holes, sand it smooth then add 2 coats of CoatIt or GluvIt.

Here's a shot of the paint pile...just from one exterior side!




Mike

Mike,
Looks like the project is coming along very nicely!
Good Luck!
You'll have to take me for a float trip when she is ready.
Of course, I'll take you for a float trip in my Lavro.

Is that a specialty marine hull? looks like the same type of construction as mine. I did the same work total strip and refinish. The bottom was the same a sheet of 1/4" over 1/2". I had mahogany chines and replaced them with oak.

Mike,

Flounder Bay Boat Lumber in Anacortes should be able to supply you with chines, transom, and any other pieces you need. Also, I think you might be able to glass the outside bottom of the boat if that 1/2" ply is in good condition provided you don't glass it also on the inside, which would seal in moisture. Talk to the folks at FBBL; they're real knowledgable and helpful with restoration projects.

Sincerely,

Salmo g.

You can get 14' to 20' lengths at Crosscut Hardwoods in Seattle. I would also look at ipe as it is much stronger for the chine application. Also more rot resistant. it was used for ship decking in years past. I have the plans all laid out for a Don Hill 17' Db and I will build the ribs and the chines, rails etc from ipe.

SR: You betchya! Let's wait till the Coho's come in in Oct. and do the Fabers - Baker run.

Driftwood: Did you replace that 1/4" piece, or just leave it off? I see no reason for the add-on, myself, and it would just create add'l drag on the bottom. Once the bottom coating is applied it should be nice and slick.

Salmo: Dang good thinking! I had not considered that moisture could still exit via the inside. It is good wood, and by the time the glass would go on it will be nice and dry.

Does FBBL also carry marine hardware? I need to replace the bolts that were attaching the gunnel rails, and want to use brass (or whatever is best).

I'll also need some epoxy (with wood flour added) to use as filler for numerous small gaps, like this one at the bow:



King: Thanks for the tip on the IPE. If I'm going to Anacortes, most likely a trip to Seattle won't happen. I would rather chew glass than go to that big city..too many people there for this kid.
I'll be sure to ask the folks out in Anacortes about it though.

I figure another week of sanding and paint removal and then I can start doing the fun work of the new transom, building new seats, sealer coats and finish paint and stain.

Target date for completion is July 10, and I'll do a birthday drift in celebration.

Mike

Mike,
i'll second going to flounder bay. They will have the epoxy (system 3 a 2:1 mix ratio) and wood flour (it's just flour const. sawdust). They'll also have the oak you need if not, windsor plywood here in bellingham has oak that long too. The people at flounder bay are very nice and will be very helpful. I personally would reattach another sheet of 1/4" over the 1/2" you might find that without the extra layer of 1/4" you bottom might flex a little more than you may want it to when sliding it over a rock. I also agree with the point made about the wood being able to breath from the inside, and besides if you were to put on the coat-it or gluv-it on the bottom it would be the same as fiberglassing and epoxy, seals it up just the same.
As for weather flounder carries hardware i'm not sure. I think they may have some.
I've been following along with your project updates and have enjoyed your posts.
If i can be of any help feel free to ask i just finished up a wood stitch and glue power dory at easter and have gone through a lot of epoxy and fiberglass.
anyway, good job on the project and i look forward to seeing the finished boat.

chumsalmon

I'm glad your enjoying the project Mike. I'm even happier for you that boat was as solid as I thought it was, wood-wise. I gotta tell you - I had second thoughts about giving her up. BUT I know you'll have ton's of fun with her and that half of it right there.

Good luck and keep up the good work!

Mike,

I no longer live in the area so haven't been to FBBL for a long time. They did stock a fair amount of hardware, and they can probably order what you need if they don't have it on hand. I've bought bronze screws and bolts and other parts there in years past. And they'll help you out with the epoxy and wood flour. Last time I had a repair job, I just phoned them and explained what I was trying to do. They shipped me a "kit" based on that call that included everything I needed for the job. My experience with them is why I'm happy to recommend them.

Have fun!

Sincerely,

Salmo g.

If you get in a tight spot for materials Mike, email me. The outfit I work for has lots of wood around, lots of different species, special price for you(depending what it is could even be free).

Chumsalmon:

Thanks for the great tips. As far as the addl' piece of 1/4", it was an 8' piece that basically coverd only the portion of the bottom that was in the water. If you look at this pic, it started in front of the green pain line and went to about 2' from the bow. There was a 1/4" "lip" at the front where it ended, and this was my concern on creating additional drag.



I have no problem replacing it with a new piece, and your comment: "you might find that without the extra layer of 1/4" you bottom might flex a little more than you may want it to when sliding it over a rock" sounds like it might be a good idea.

Power dory? Cool! Seems Ive found a new love and already advised the wife that as soon as this project is finished a set of drift boat plans will be on order. I would like to build a new DB, then if I can find the plans a 18-20' wood sled that can handle at least a 90 hp. (60 jetted).

Mark: I'm glad that you did decide to let it go! Yeah, this is a lot of work (did I mention I've been sanding to two weeks?) but in the long run this little drifter still has a lot of years of service left to give, and a new lease on life is in the making. I did find some soft spots along the chines and under all that paint and caulking. Nothing that I can't clean out with a wire brush and fill with the epoxy. You won't recognize it when done, I hope.

Salmo: That place sounds like the kind of people I prefer to do business with. At this stage I've still got a a LOT of green paint to remove from the interior before I can even think of applying sealer coats and picking out a new interior color....but I've got some time today and may just run out to Anacortes and talk to those folks about the stuff I'll be needing, and I would like to get those holes in the bottom (from the attachment of the former 1/4" ply piece) filled and drying for a while before any sanding on the bottom (or attachment of a new piece) happens.

Jerry: Thanks for the offer! So far, it is all sanding labor that is going into it. As for needed wood, the transom is the only piece that I plan to use Marine Grade on. If I replace that bottom piece I'll probably use a good exterior grade since it will be glassed and coated with CoatIt or GluvIt (or some concoction of epoxy/graphite). That transom will need to be 3/4" or 1" Marine grade, either that or I'll expoxy 2 pieces of 3/8" together. It will have additional support pieces along the sides, as well, since it will have the 7.5 Johnson sitting on it. (She won't be fast, but hopefully enough power to run us back up to the front of the slot for another drift!)

Plan is to build new plywood seats with storage compartments beside the padded front seat and padded rowing seat (with a short backrest).

Once I figure out what size pieces I'll send you a PM and maybe you could take a gander around the shop for what is laying around? Doesn't have to be fancy, just servicable.

Time to head out to Flounder Bay so's I can get some more sanding in tonight. Exterior is almost completely void now of that green stuff.

Mike

Mike,
i see now what you were saying from the picture. If you want to replace the 1/4" and make it so that you can go from bow to stearn on the bottom you can scarf two pieces of plywood together too. You can scarf the two pieces in a number of ways. Scarf joints are 8 to 1 slope. So you can draw that out on the plywood and then use a block plane or belt sander to create the slope. You then epoxy the joint together. now you've got the desired length of plywood to cover the entire bottom (i agree with you about the 8' of 1/4" creating some drag). i'll also add that a scarf joint with epoxy is actually as strong or stronger than the plywood itself (i've done the tests and the wood breaks before the joint does). I have a skill saw set up to cut scarf joints too, makes cutting them quick and easy if you feel uncomfortable doing it the other ways (i'm just up the highway from you in bellingham). anyway just a thought. and if you can't find the correct lenghts of oak you can scarf joint those too.

And sense you mentioned "wood jet sled" hear is a link to where you can buy plans for a wood jet sled.
http://www.tracyobrien.com/showcat.asp?id=2
I built the headwater 16, but look at the deadrise 19 if you're interested in a sled.

As a side note, i fish the cascade quite a bit in the fall so maybe on one of those trips i make up there this fall i'll have to stop by and take a look at your finished project.

Take care,
wingnut

I did replace the 1/4" sheet and laminated it to the 1/2" sheet. I thought about the added flex it would have without it and since the center bottom frame was already broke from probably a well placed rock I elected to beef it up. Two layers of 7.5oz cloth ran up over the chine and ended at the bottom of the battons topped off with coat-it is what I did.

Mike, the oak chines would be a cinch for me.

Scarfing joints is a giant task best left to the professional. Any Dunn Lumber can order you a 16' long piece of ply for the bottom, pre scarfed. A company in Oregon makes that stuff. On my old woodie, I used 1/4 UHMW for the bottom. You can buy this for the same price as ply. UHMW is a super hard, super slippery plastic that is virtually indestructable. There are some very specific installation instructions, but once the "shoe" is on the bottom of your boat it will slide off rocks (and the launch) faster that you can spit. You secure it with Silicon Bronze screws into the bottom of your boat. UHMW is available at Laird Plastics in Seattle.

1) Cut the UHMW to the proper size for your boat bottom.
2) Set UHMW out in the sun to get it warm. Leave your boat inside in the shade. The UHMW will warm at a faster rate than your boat, so if you screw it in cold, it will expand and be warpy on the bottom of your boat on a warm day.
3) Place the UHMW on the boat bottom, drill counter sink screw holes in and place screws. You need to work quickly while the UHMW is warm.
4) Once you've got the entire shoe screwed in, back each screw out one at a time and dip the screws in 5200 Marine Sealent and replace them. This will seal the screws in the bottom of the boat.

You will not be dissappointed in this bullet proof bottom. You'll never have to touch it again, and it is slicker that snot.

Chumsalmon/Wingnut & Driftwood:

I'm going to take your advice and go ahead and replace that 1/4" piece. While the interior frames are solid and sound, an added 1/4" to the bottom can't hurt.

Spent some time at Flounder Bay this afternoon (nice folks). One question that came up about fiberglass on the bottom was the chine design on this hull. The inner chine and the bottom extend beyond the sides, so if I'm going to glass it (to extend over the chine and up the sides a bit) I'll have to round the bottom edge so the glass isn't trying to make a sharp corner. I'm sending a pic of the bottom edge showing the detail to the folks there at FB and then a determination can be made whether to glass or not.

Also bought 1/2 Gal. of System Three resin and plenty of hardener (#2) to be able to coat the sides. Since I'm going to paint, this will seal the wood and provide a better surface for the paint. Bottom will also ultimately be coated with epoxy w/25% graphite added.

BTW: Been slobbering over the Tracy O'Brien pages for a while now...the "Deadrise 19" looks great, although I was thinking of a more squared off front and flatter bottom...but its an idea!

Jerry: Sounds great! It'll be a few weeks yet before I get that far, but the pieces I'll be looking for are about thin - 1 1/4" X 1/2". Squared edges is fine as I can use the belt sander to get the right radius once they are installed. If you have something even close maybe I can get someone to rip them down for me with their table saw.

Kyle: I am told that the UHMW is quite the thing for drift boat bottoms...but the problems I'm hearing also make me want to avoid it. There is no way to seal the UHMW to the bottom sufficient to keep water from getting under it...making a perfect environment for rot. Stuffs also spendy compared to the epoxy/graphite mix, and cost is becoming a factor in a hurry on this restoration job. I don't want to cut-corners, but spending $200 for UHMW when a high-quality alternative is under $100 doesn't make sense on this boat.

How big of a sheet did you put under your boat?

If I was to use it, the bottom would definitely have to be glassed otherwise it would have to be removed after each season and the hull dried out to prevent the dry rot.

Awesome slippery stuff though...no question there!

As to the scarf joint on the 1/4" ply, I have done them before on other woods without problems. I can belt sand in the 8-1 fadeout and do the scarf joint on the floor of the garage. If it is a slight bit bumpy on top of the joint the belt sander with a 120 belt can fix that in a hurry. Having spent some time working with a custom cabinet maker in my youth taught me just enough to get in trouble..:-)

Salmo/Chum - Thanks for that great tip on Flounder Bay. Nice people, very knowledgeable and took the time to answer all my dumb questions on the resin/glassing. Only spent a bit there today, but I am guess they will relieve me of much more income, over time, and as future projects are begun. Small store, quality products, nice folks with tons of know-how will get my business every time before the mega-stores.

About to flip her back over (right side up) and start stripping the interior now. I did find one bad spot in the side at the chine level. Ground out all the bad wood up under that chine piece(about 6" long by 1") and the wood underneath is still sound, but now that 1/4" side is down to about 1/8" through that area. Epoxy filler with wood-flour added should be able to fill it in sufficiently once it totally dries out. The spot will also be coverd by the kick-panel, so it can be a little ugly, but got to be strong enough and water tight.

Tomorrow is a day off...down to Woodinville to install a new shower for my parents.

Mike

Mike,
Don't know how bad it is/was but from your description it sounds like there was some dry rot going on. When I was doing my oar I came across a site that talked about stopping dry rot and how to repair it. One thing they mentioned that stopped me dead for a second is that once dry rot is started you can't just stop it without radical surgery, removing the entire area that is affected. The reason is because the dry rot isn't caused by wood just deteriorating but according to the article a living organism that eats the wood and goes beyond the area that is noticably affected. The article did state that there is only one way to stop dry rot (I'd have to temper this by saying, that the author knew of). He used ethelene glycol (antifreeze) to stop the rot. He said that this will kill the dry rot organism and after it dries can be painted and/or epoxied.

Google for "dry rot" repair "ethelene glycol" and you'll probably find the article.

Mark,

Thanks for the info on the Antifreeze. The bad spot is about mid-boat, and right at the junction of the inner chine, side and bottom.

In order to really expose the entire space, I'll need to totally remove the bottom and inner chine piece. I don't see (or feel any more soft wood) up in there since I ground it all out, and I've probed deeply with the knife edge. It's a tough spot to get to without taking it all apart...and if that has to be done then it's a whole new ball game, but I don't see the need to go to that extent at this time.

At this point I feel it will be fine with your solution (painting in some ethelene glycol). It's exposed enough now that once the ethelene glycol dries completely I can fill it with epoxy/wood flour mix flush with the side.

I'f were able to glass over the bottom and up the side 3 inches it will also cover this spot.

Should be as good (or better) than new when done!

Mike

True on all counts about UHMW. It actually is a benefit that is doesnt seal. This allows full drainage after use. I did glass the entire boat, but I was building a new boat, so moisture was not an issue. I did the System Three full epoxy encapsulation with cloth. I can't imagine that you couldn't put your boat upside down in the garage for a couple weeks with some mild heat under it to dry it out. I'm not a woodworking expert, but I wouldn't finish the boat without sealing everything with epoxy so that you ensure you never deal with this again. All these reasons are why I sold my wood boat. The epoxy encapsulated floor would flex under load, and on a rainy day take in some water. I found the maintenance just too much for my liking. Even kept in a warm garage it still needed routine maintenance. It's a labor of love.

Mike, I don't know if this will help out or not, but I like the stuff.....polyurethane glue is waterproof, sandable, paintable and has the additional property of expanding to fill imperfections. Because it expands, however, it will leave small bubble dimples in the exposed service of the glue, which may be filled with anything from putty to paint. I mention this solely to keep you from expecting a "too slick" surface on the glue itself. I honestly think if you give it a shot on a sample project, you will be impressed. It runs into the smallest of imperfections, so that must be kept in mind when applying. It's not perfect for every job, but it is ideal for many.

How much of the length of the boat have you decided to remove? I ask because I'm concerned about the bow rise. I would think it possibly disastrous to catch the point of the bow on a rock, due to the weight distribution being too far forward. (Probably something you have already taken into consideration.)

Good Fun to You!