Anyone have any comments or opinion on Smokercraft Alaskans? They look like they would be good little Sound boats for someone looking for a small boat. I see a fair amount of them around, and some for sale periodically.

I know it's a rivetted boat; I wonder how they are for leaks? Stability/performance? Etc.

Thanks for your comments

Richard, 2 years ago, I was looking very hard for a aluminum boat for fishing in the sound and straights. I was looking for a smoker craft as a first choice because of the deck space on the 16'ers. The tought of a rivited hull wasn't a big concern.
I found one that I was reallly considering buying and talked to the owner for hours. (fishing stories) This owner finally told me that buying HIS boat would be a mistake for someone that fishes alot because of the rivited hull. He told me he's had nothing but trouble with leaks. This was his opinion and I had to believe him being that he just lost a sale on his boat. I finally found a welded crestliner and have been happy with the hull design and lack of rivits.
Thats my opinion and I'm sure there's people out there with rivited hulls that are happy with their boat.

I bought a 97 15ft smokercraft last year from my brother. I love the boat it goes anywhere but the ocean, I take it out in the sound, up to Seiku, No problems and mine doesn't leak. My brother just bought a brand new 16fter on Saturday nice boat.

I had trouble with leaks on a new 15 foot Alaskan and would up trading with the manufacture for a 16 foot Lodge SS, which so far has worked perfectly. The problem with the 15 footer was that it was the standard model with no floor, and the vibration from running in chop loosened the rivits. The split seat models with the floor and poured-in foam under the floor do not have this problem as the foam dampens the vibration. I will say this about Smokercraft, they stand behind their boats and gave me full replacement value with no guff.

I ran a Smokercraft Alaskan for 6 years and I never had any issues with leaks. I mainly fished the Sound,but went to Seiku 3-4 times per year. Last year when I bought a new boat I went with an Alumaweld,not because it is welded,but because Smokercraft didn't offer the kind of package I was looking for.

If you pass up a riveted boat for a welded one because it will never leak guess again. A welded boat is less likely to to leak,but welds can and do crack if abused. Use common sense and don't beat the crap out of a boat,and either one will work for a lot of years.

Spawnout, that Alaskan you had that leak issues, is that the boat you're in your picture included with your biograph?

Out of curiousity, did you ever land it on shore? I've heard from others that putting the boat on shore can cause problems with rivetted boats.

I pulled my boat up on shore all the time. I took it duck hunting to the Potholes quite a bit and pulled it up on shore in the sand dunes all the time. We also take a yearly trip or two to Jameson lake and would leave it pulled on shore for 3-4 days at a time.

I've ran into Spawnout a few times at Pt. Defiance,and he had the same boat I did.

Sounds like maybe some folks get 'em that leak, and some don't, eh?

My uncle used to sell Gregor and Crestliner, and so of course he's partial to welded boats. I've heard heard the pros and cons for both the rivetted and the welded boats. It seems to me that most of the leak complaints I hear are from people who own rivetted boats. However, it also seems rare for a Lund owner to complain about leaks.

It also seems that I hear of people who move from rivetted boats to welded, but usually not the other way around. Of course the local Lund dealer knocks welded boats, saying that just about every Gregor older than 5 years old has cracked welds, that Crestliner dealers come and go all the time, and that Lund sells 5 boats for every Crestliner. However, he didn't have an answer when I also pointed out that Chevy sells more cars than Mercedes Benz, but that doesn't make a Chevy vehicle better.

I kind of get that it's the luck of the draw, and how you treat your boat, that will really dictate if a rivetted boat will leak.

However, as I noted in my original post, those Smokercraft Alaskans are all over, they seem to be built to take our type of water, are relatively affordable.

I sure do appreciate everyone's comments!

Buy a Duroboat no rivits , no welds and no leaks. Problem solved!!!

Look into the SmokerCraft Lodge--much better dimensions.

I think thats exactly right.

I have a '14 Larson/Crestliner that is riveted and was made in the early 50s. It does not leak at all (it will be for sale soon). My newest boat is a 2001 '16 Smokercraft Osprey and so far it has no leaks and I use it all over the Sound and at Sekiu.

Damon

I had the 13' smokercraft alaskan and it was the most tippy boat
I've ever been in. I got rid of it. I had a rule in the boat when friends came along fishing with me. It was like this, "OK if you're even thinking of standing up, let me know first." It was a hollow, flexible boat also. It flexed all the time when going over medium sized waves. I'd say go with a small fiberglass stable puget sound proven boat like a Salty, Livingston or Sorensen. They're the same price and way safer more stable boat for their small size. In my experiences, small aluminum boats and puget sound don't go well together.

My brother had a 15 foot model, didn't leak a drop.

Lofty, what do you think made the boat so tippy? Do think it too narrow? Something else . . . ? I've not heard from others the comment you made about the boat being tippy. About the only thing negative I've heard negative about Smokercraft boats are they are rivetted, and some seem to like to leak.

I bought a Crestliner for that very reason. No leaks, bilge pump if I take on water, and excellent interior.
It is going up for sale and if you want a 16', you should take a look.
It's fully outfitted and ready to go.

goforchrome, I've only heard positive things from the few people that I've encountered that own Crestliner boats. For some reason, out here they don't seem to have a very large following.

It seems the welded boats (Gregor, Crestliner, now Monark and recently Fisher) don't have as much market share as the rivetted boats (Lund, Smokercraft, Alumacraft, etc.).

I looked at the Duroboats (I've never ridden in one), and a couple of things jumped out at me. The hull gauge didn't seem as sturdy as some of the competitors; the transom wasn't a 'true' full transom; and I noticed that on used boats that the paint is bubbling at those points where there are penetrations in the side of the hull (where the screws go through that hold seats, etc.). It seems like the Puget Sound/Northwest is one of the few areas where a person can actually find a Duroboat. I don't know what that says, other than that they don't sell in other areas. But . . .

Richard,
Check out http://www.duroboat.com
They have dealers around the country and overseas.I think one of the reasons you dont see as many Duro's as the other makes you have been looking at.Is a matter of cost Duro's cost a little more than the lower quality boats.And I never had and or seen any paint problems on a Duroboat.And if you check there website out you will find the hull gauge thickness to be as good if not better than the other brands.

I've had my 15' Alaskan since 92 and it's never had a leak. It's pretty stable and rides pretty high, I feel pretty safe in it. Had it up to Neah Bay and all over Hood Canal as well as the Columbia all year for fishing and duck hunting. I do like the setup of the new Lodge series though. I have seen a ton of Lunds at Wind River. Might be worth looking into.