a question for downriggin, shock cords for downrigger weights. what is this all about. sorry, im a newbie. thanks

I could answer that but since this is for downriggin. I will leave it for him to reply. If he doesnt reply maybe some of us others can help if you repost. Or did you mean downrigging

BL,

Great question!

Instead of connecting the release to the ball or along the wire, I replace the bottom 2 - 3 feet of wire with 1/8" nylon line (parachute cord works well too). I do this for a few reasons: (1) Breaks electrical connectivity, (2) Save wear on the wire. A trolling snap plays hell on the wire after a few times of clipping. Also, keeps the wire from fraying when I am fishing rocky areas, (3) Better feel of the bottom, (4) Save costs- the green rubber snubber that people love is expensive and has a break strength of 10#s.. Count that plus the price of a 10# ball. Eeek!

I use a 1/16" nylon for the releases... Less coil in the line which offers a straighter angle toward the DR wire. There no initial jerk in the release line- more solid hook ups!

Hope that helped!

Now you've got me a little confused... A couple questions:

1. You say this serves to break the electrical connectivity, but doesn't this defeat the purpose of a black box or Canon's Positive ion control? Do you use vinyl covered downrigger balls?

2. So you snap your release to the nylon cord instead of the wire. Where do you get the nylon cord and how do you connect it to the downrigger wire? Splice?

3. How are you able to get a better feel or a better hookset? Doesn't seem to me that there would be any difference. I can't picture the improvement.

ET,

Answers:

1) Regardless of the weight you'll still have some electrical connectivity. I use a Plain Jane 15#r's connected to a 300# s/s snap swivel instead of the expensive Scotty snaps i.e. Connectivity broken... The Black Box still charges the wires so you are not defeating the purpose at all. Just an extra measure I take.

2) Any hardware store will carry nylon line. Russ at Narrows Marina still has some I believe. There are numerous ways to connect... I like to ... First, from the "bitter end" of the wire connect a 300# barrel swivel and crimp. Tie an Uni Knot with 3 or 4 turns and secure...same for the snap swivel side. Burn the tag ends and place a drop or two of super glue on the knot. For under $3 you have a setup that will last for two or three season w/o having to replace everything.

3) Since the nylon stretches under the weight of a 15# ball, the nylon coils back to orginal stance immediately upon hitting bottom. This, in turn, signals better movement of the dr booms. As far as a hook set, I make all my own releases to length. Instead of 150-200# test mono for the release length, I use 1/16" nylon cord. The reason for doing this is two fold: (1) thinner diameter- less resistance in the water. This offers not even the slightest coils resistance as mono- straight in-line with the wires and no initial 1 to 2 jerk for the release. (2) more durable than mono with fewer tangle around the wires. I was a bit skeptical at first, but I noticed a difference quickly.

Give 'er a go. I think you'll be hooked

ET, another note is that without the nylon cord or Canon's short stop to break the connection between the ball and your cable it will hammer right into the end of your boom.

DR

You have heard me say it before.

One picture is worth 10,000 words.

I think I've figured what your saying, but not quite sure. a picture would confirm.

Another plus for the cord is that its a lot easier on your hands than wire is. Sure saves the hands from cuts.