Input on using Power Pro line for spinning reel? Do the tie-on style slip bobber, bobber stops hold on this line as well as they do on mono. I am thinking of leaving mono, but not sure if I will have to fight the bobber stops on the super-line.

The bobber stops hold way much better on braided line then they do on mono.When it comes to bobber / float fishin you can't beat braid.Good luck,
STRIKE ZONE

P.S. I'm runnin a 6-12 med light with 50lb braid to a 25lb ultra green leader for silvers and loving it.I'm also getting back my spinners @ $3.00 a pop.I may have to straighten back the hook but well worth getting them back.Braid has it's up's and downs but in these two applications it's working great for me.I'm a mono guy from hell,un til now.

I love power pro while mooching or jigging but no longer use it in freshwater for steelhead. Several years ago I had a bad experiance when a large steelhead took off around a rock on me. Tink---fish off.

Last year I bought my first float rod with a spinning reel. I originally filled it with power pro since it floats and I thought it would mend easier (which it did) than mono. But after a few days I had line twist so bad I switched back to mono. I've been happy ever since.

I guess I just like mono too much. If used in the right conditions though the power pro should work great. I suppose it's just a personnal choice.

Love/Hate Power Pro, changes minute to minute. Love the no stretch for setting the hook, hate how snarly it gets. Switched my float rod to Power Pro last year but gave up and went back to mono. I'm trying it again this year on a BSF and so far a little bit better but jury is still out. 15# Power Pro with 10# leaders.

I love braid for bobber fishing; I tie on my own bobber stops using dacron and they work fine. I mostly use a baitcaster for bobber fishing, but use powerpro on a spinning rig for walleye blade baits and love it. The only thing you have to be super careful about is to flip the bail by hand and make sure there's no loop of loose line before starting to reel after each cast. If you get a loop unraveling on your spool, you're toast with braid. Get in the habit of checking your spool after every cast and you'll love it.

I've been running 15# and 20# PP on my float rods for going on two years now, and I love it. As mentioned, it floats, so very easy to mend. No stretch, so easy to set into a fish.

Downside: For whatever reason, this stuff will often roll off the top of the spool when the bail flips, so I have to watch for that. It also will tip-wrap easily, so if you set the hook and miss a fish, watch out.

Question for the rest of you though: I've never had any problem with line twist, but then I've never used the PP for spinners. I normally pop on the mono spool for that. Does the PP get line twist from spinners?

now I'm a little worried, I get line twist pretty bad with mono when bobber fishing, which unfortunately is about 80% of my steelhead fishing. I was hoping the super line would have less memory, what is causing the twisting? Thanks for the input so far.

Clearwaterman:

Went to Stren braided line last summer. I have both Power Pro and Stren braided lines, I like the Stren better.

Got the 20 pound test but 6 pound diameter. The line worked ohhhhhhh so good June 1 until September when I stopped fishing summerrun.

Positive:

1. No memory, love this feature.

2. No stretch......great for hook set.

3. Use "round cork bobber"..........never lost a one all summer. Bobber was on the Stren braided line.......then used 6, 8, or 10 Test leaders.

4. Love the way in "lays on top of the water".

5. Round cork bobber, was very easy to adjust...Braided line is slippery.

6. Was able to use the same knots as with monofilament.

7. Worked great on spinning reels, no problems at all.

Negative:

1. Because of the "diameter size" tough to try and get a knot out.

2. Cost, initial cost......like $25.00 for 250 yds.

"Worse day sport fishing, still better than the best day working"

Braid is the definitive choice for float fishing by virtue of mendability and being able to keep a straight-line presentation between the rod tip and the float. Have never tried braid on a spinning reel... just doesn't seem right to me. The one thing I do notice for all of you slip bobber fans is that the braid can be abrasive and will eventually groove the tube on your floats and eventually they will not slip along the mainline as well as they used to... in fact the grooves may even trap the line altogether. Anybody have a good solution for touching up grooved floats?

On another note, allow me to share some observations about braid from this past salmon-trolling season. I ran four different brands of braid (Whiplash, PowerPro, Spiderwire Stealth, and Tuf XP) in my boat this fall... trolling a dropper, FishFlash, and plug cut herring. I run premium Sampo BB swivels on all my FishFlash, and line twist is still an issue. The coarser braids like PowerPro and Tuf XP were a little more resistant to twist. The smoother Stealth and Whiplash have less "body", tend to flatten like dental floss, and were much more prone to twist. With the rods in the holders, you could actually see the twist developing in the lines throughout the day... kind of like party streamers that you twist to decorate for your kid's birthday. After cleaning the boat, I spent every evening running out the lines in my driveway and manually untwisting them for the next outing.

I will stick to the smoothe braids in the river for backtrolling plugs, backbouncing bait, and fishing floats from a baitcaster.

For trolling whirly things like FishFlash and herring, it's PowerPro for me.

I've been using Power Pro on my spinning reels for a couple years now. I run 20# for mainline with maxima ultragreen for leaders. To eliminate line twist I use in-line weights with swivels on each end. This set-up works great for float fishing. Whenver I get hung up on the bottom, the mono always breaks first leaving the mainline and float intact.

Mark

I run a barrell swivel between the braid and mono to prevent line twist while tossing spinners.It has worked out well.Good luck,
STRIKE ZONE

Hey First Cast (Mark), those new Owner hooks you sent me to try out are awesome looking. Those points are nasty sharp!!

As for using power pro for float fishing, it takes some getting used to, but it definately has some advantages. I have had no problem with bobber stops slipping.

thanks all, I am going for it. gonna hit the store tomorrow before fishing. Any extra input is much appreciated.

I've got power pro on all my rods and I've never had an issue with line twist on my spinning reels.

I started out running 20lbs(6lbs dia) and then switched to 30lbs(8lbs dia) because it has more body and is easier to deal with. Seems to tip wrap less.

I usually double uni knot a section of mono to the end. Its probably not necessary, but it makes me feel better having some low-vis line close to my offering. I've never had an issue with the uni knot connection failing.

one last tip to the many good ones you have got here already. Use mono as backing, saves your spool as the line tightens and lets the line dry out. You won’t have to worry about dry rot with a mono backing. You should change pp every two years as opposed to every season with mono.


Confidence = success

If that was already mentioned above I missed it.

If you don't want your line to twist when trolling spinning things, like fishflash and herring, you have to use lots of 6 bead chain swivels - I use one on my main line, one on my leader, two on the fishflash, and one to connect the diver to the fishflash - 5 total! The reason for this overkill is weeds - you get lots of goop on your line in muddy bays like the Willapa and Grays Harbor, and if you rely on only one or two swivels, or on multiple single swivels, even high quality ones, the weeds will plug them up and you will get lotsa line twist. I have put over 500 days of trolling on my Power Pro in the last 5 years I have been using it, and I have never had line twist problems.

When running a Fish Flash, hook a trolling rudder to your main line Sampo and then to the Sampo that you put on the Fish Flash in lieu of the bead swivel that came with the older models. It will really reduce your line twist. If you don' t have a trolling rudder handy, try a small (1 oz or 2 oz) crescent sinker.

I like power pro when your float is about 200 feet down stream and it goes down. You can still set the hook at that range and get in touch with the fish very quickly.

Never had an issue with line twist when trolling or throwing spinners, but it doesn't work well in off-shore (clothes pin) style downrigger releases. It does dig into the reel, but if you adjust they way you handle snags and the like, you can control this. Never had it do anything strange or unexpected.

I fish 20# and 30#, depending on the rod. I use it for spinners, drift fishing, boondoggin', and float fishing. Oh yeah, I have some 50# on my plug rods. It sits on baitcasters and spinning rods in my boat.

One tip, switch ends on the line to extend the life, like a fly line. I fish about 75-80 days a year, and have no issue getting it to last two years, but it does bleach out.

I used the same piece of drift lead three trips running, retying the power pro and removing about 1' each day. Lost rigs, but never the whole set-up.

Experiment!