Taking this on for the first time. Looks fairly straight forward.

I ripped up some cheesy tile we did not like and to make it easier I took the subfloor 1/2 inch particle board with it. I failed to ck if there was a gap on the perimeter of the subfloor.

When I go to replace the 1/2 inch sub floor for my laminate should I have a 1/4 ish gap or should I go right to the wall? I know with the laminate this is required for expansion.

Thanks

take it to the wall , within reason.

You are going to screw the subfloor down with lots and lots of screws, so it won't be able to expand that much. The laminate is "floating" so it can move a lot easier. IMO it doesn't matter either way regarding the subfloor.

Get the heaviest laminate foam underlayment they make, you will notice the difference when you walk on it.

and don't use in "wet" areas

take it to the wall , within reason.---Copy that chasbo

RR--you do suggest screw down the subfloor? good to know I was sold "ribbed" nails. (man screw and ribbed wth am I talking about)

I will return the nails for screws. I will also make sure I get the more betta underlayment

Thanks guys

You can apply your subfloor with a coil nailer shooting 2.25" ring shanks. Doesn't take long doing that. Rent/borrow a gun and you can be done in a few hours if it is for a single room, depending on how quick of a carpenter you are. 6" spacing in the field, 4" spacing on the edges. Wear earplugs, as you are inside.

Subfloor goes to the edge. Laminate needs a gap of 1/8" - 1/4". More of a gap than that and you'll have issues with your floor molding covering the gap.

I believe what he was talking about was the foam that goes over the underlayment, between the uderlayment and the laminate. There is basic foam, then more of a dense foam, and then felt.

You can pound ring shanks, or use screws, or air nail ringshanks. All based on availability of tools and the time you have available. I use what is quickest, air nailer for me.

Prolly easiest for the do-it-yourselfer to screw down the particle board. 4 and 8* is way plenty. Try to run the screws into structure (read joists) and either run perpendicular or offset the particle board in relation to the existing floor sheathing. IOW, avoid lining up joints from one system to another.
The above is about fighting squeaks, in fact go on a squeak hunt before you flop down the particle board.

Follow the manufacturer's recommendations on the flooring install.

* Fastener schedule:
(approx) 4" on the perimeter (ea sheet) and 8" in the field of (ea sheet) of particle board.

A lot of the laminate flooring now comes with foam backing already on it much easier to use .Cut it up side down your saw blade will last longer.

seems to be lots of carpenters out of work

Get the laminate with foam backing already on it it's easier, you'll pay more but Pergo looks better than Kirkland. I only left about 1/8" around the perimeter and it worked out fine.

Andy is right, ring shank nails or screws. Either is fine. I just figured you had bought screws

Going on 'sqeak hunt' (nice terminology) is also important before you lay your subfloor.

Keep in mind that Pergo and all laminate flooring is just thin laminate on particle board. It is junk. Water and all those nice seams are going to cup and swell in just a few years time. Not trying to burst you bubble with pergo, but why on earth would anyone want to put particle board and thin laminate in small pieces on a walking surface. once you dent it or penetrate the surface of the laminate, its a mess.

I've done high end woodworking for 25 years and I would never consider using that product, even on an apartment. It just won't hold up.

I agree that there are better products out there but my floors have held up fine for 6 years with a family of 5 plus pets. If you stay on top of spills and are not a complete slob you can keep the stuff in reasonably good condition.

Its called wiping your feet and cleaning up after yourself.

I don't expect laminate flooring to replace hardwood. We used hardwood upstairs, but I'm planning on using the laminate flooring in my basement, excepting the laundary room and bathroom. Since the laminate is basically like formica, which holds up to tons of abuse, it should be plenty durable so long as the basement doesn't flood. With the snap-together type of laminate material, it's a DIY project, and I found I can do my whole basement cheaper than carpeting it, which I'm not sure I'd want anyway.

Sg

AuntyM,

I'm not going to be living in the basement. It's just there because I built on a hillside, and it seemed like the right thing to do; plus it should be good for resale with the extra bedrooms, bath, big family or rec. room, etc. The basement has radiant heat in the concrete floor, so it's warm. Just need something to cover it up.

I have oak flooring on the main floor. It has a good feel. I should try and post some more recent pictures.

Sg

I'd be concerned about moisture in the concrete basement floor. You'll need a vapor barrier.

We did Pergo in our old house, the click type, and within 6 months the edges were bulging as Kevin stated. Pergo paid me to replace the floor, which I did with the glue and strap Pergo. That is better than the click stuff.

Plywood composite or solid wood would be better.

Andy,

Solid hardwood on the basement floor is a no-no, not that I want it there anyway. What they call engineered hardwood flooring, 1/4" hardwood glued to 3/8" or 1/2" plywood backing is supposed to be OK, but I don't want to put any wood on the concrete. Any flooring with much insulating value would undermine the effect my radiant heating system. I could just lay vinyl flooring all over the basement, but I thought the pergo imatator looks nicer and would provide some footfall cushioning. Hadn't thought about it being noisy tho.

Sg

I put in about 1000 suare feet of Dupont Elite laminate flooring in a walnut pattern about 3 years ago. Kitchen, family room and entry way. No problems with this material and it is grandkid proof. I had about 20 people over for my wife's birthday last weekend and the place was rocking for about 4 - 5 hours. When my wife cleaned up the floor the next day it looked brand new. She used a warm water and vinegar solution. Amazing stuff. My son had his hardword floors refinished at about the same time as I installed this floor. His floors are close to be needing another refinish job. I used a 1/4" gap between the walls and flooring. I also left a 1/8" gap between the bottom of the moulding and top of the floor. The floor needs to move so be sure to leave these gaps.

I have a width and length schedule for this flooring if you need it. I can scan it and e-mail it to you. Let me know. The material is 11 7/16" x 46 9/16".

Have fun!

Captain

Thank you Captian.

For the reason of ease of install, budget along with carpeting the majority of the house and maintenance free was why I went with Laminate. Oh and easy to cleanup. We now have carpeting under our dining room table--What the?? Bad idea. Will now be laminate.

I understand wood has its qualities, but I am fine with not having to re-stain. My parents home has had Pergo for 17 years and they are very happy.

Captian I will PM you my email. Thanks