I just have a question regarding peoples opinions on bait casting reels in general.

I have purchased a Pflueger Trion reel. Gear ratio is 6.3:1. (For basic trout, bass, crappie,etc.)
This wasn't a cheap reel as things go.... but what is up with the difficulty in casting it without having the spool become birds nest?? I have set the internal Centrifugal braking system, so as all six brakes are on to slow the spool down. However, even when throwing it (and) leaving my thumb on the spool slightly, there seems to be no way to avoid a snarl.

Do you people like baitcasting reels compared to a good quality spinning reel?
I am thinking of putting mine out to pasture.

Let me know, and thanks.
Chris

I could never figure out the baitcasting reels...I always use Spinning reels because thats what I have been using since I was 3 years old and the only time I use reels like Bait casting is for salmon trolling but you never cast you just let the drag loose and let the line spool out with some tension as the downrigger ball goes down...I say take the line off the spool, stick the reel back in the box and take it back with the receipt to the store and make up an excuse like it didn't fit on my rod and have them give you your money back or store credit so you can get a spinning reel

Practice, practice, practice. It does take a lot of practice.

The number one thing that I was told when I first started using the baitcaster was this:
Use a little more weight than would otherwise be necessary and apply a little more spool tension than you need with the "spool tension knob."

That will help slow the spool down to prevent it from freewheeling so fast that it fluffs up the line.

As you get better at casting you can start decreasing the amount of weight used as well as backing off the spool tension slightly as you need it.

The spool tenson knob helps prevent with "overspool" at the beginning of the cast. While the centrifugal brakes help prevent overspool at the end of the cast.

Hope that helps. Forgive me if I have stated the obvious or if you have already tried it.

good luck,
Rafterman

"Spool Tension knob" I have to admit, I saw that and wasn't sure what it was. The reels manual didn't even mention it. The "Overspool" was hapenning more at the beginning of the cast.

Thanks much,

Chris

I'll take that old crap reel off your hands for $50.00.
Actually it is a very good reel, I have one of that kind also.
What kind of pole are you mating that reel to?
Try a med action with a fast taper, don't try to over power your cast, let it be more of a fluid motion.
When I set the Spool Tension Knob, I tie on the lure, Hold the rod out level and push the free spool button. The lure falls to the ground and as soon as it touches the ground or water the spool stops.
If the lure does not drop loosen the STK, If the spool over runs tighten the STK.
But if you don't like the reel I'll buy it for the right price.
Bill

Two things should help you solve the bird's nest problem.

First, set the spool tension knob. Adjust it for each lure by clicking the thumb bar and watching the descent of the lure. If it drops fast, more spool tension is needed. The lure should drop at a slow, steady rate. As you get used to the reel, you'll probably back off the tension knob and won't check it at all.

Second, don't try to muscle the cast. Don't cast hard...start by just trying short casts with little physical effort. If you've got things screwed down too tight, this will be tough. Try to adjust the centrifugal brakes and the spool tension knob so that you can cast maybe 50 feet without trying. Then you can work on coordinating your thumb and the reel.

Also, you should be aware that casting into the wind is the sure way to backlash, especially at first.

Good luck,

Keith

i was the same way with baitcasting reels when i first started using them. and i had the same thought of why are these so much more important then spinning reels. but once i figured out how to use it, i don't know how i ever fished without it. practice helps but experimenting with the breaks and spool tension is the most important. i hope you can figure it out

What he said. It took me a full season of frustraion to get really good at mine.

The other guys said most of the important stuff I will only add be sure that there is nothing behind you to snag on as if you think you have experienced a back lash forget this one and you will learn the hard way. Also the effort to learn to use it is worth a great deal if you are willing to put in the time. I have six and prefer them most of the time except for floating with a noodle rod. Now if you realy want a thrill try fishing with a fly rod. Glenn

Here is a website with some tips on baitcasting. Hopefully it will help you out:

http://pages.infinit.net/fishing/bait101.htm

Thanks Dan, even us old timer can use this kind of info. Glenn

Thanks to all who have offered their tips on this!
And thanks to Dan P for the link to the info. on casting. That was very informative.

Chris

Don't give up on your casting reel. Once you get it down you will be glad you did.

Generaly, if you get a backlash at the begining of the cast, adjust the centrifugal brakes. I dont know what the Trion braking system is like, but on my Shimano reels, there are a total of 6 brakes. Make sure that the brakes are balanced out. I normaly have half of my brakes "on", so every other brake is pulled.

A backlash at the end requires more tension.

When I was learning, I would set the tension pretty high and slowly ease it off after every successful cast until I was achieving a maximum distance with no backlash. When you are taking the tension out of the braking system, you will have to learn how to use your thumb to help slow down the spool as the lure/line are slowing down.

Just like everyone else said....PRACTICE!!!!

Good luck and let us know how you do.

rwgav8 had it right on which adjustment to make for which problem....I had it backwards in my post.