Getting ready to use this product on our decks. We have about 1,100 SF of deck on out house, and after 3 years they are in need of a restaining. I've seen this stuff in Home Depot, and have only read good reviews on how it wears. Pressure washed both decks a few days ago, made all my repairs, and this afternoon if I can get out early, I'll start getting this on the deck today.

I've heard some tips and tricks, such as thinning it a little bit with water, 1-3 cups per gallon, and using a different roller than the ones you buy with the kit. I already have a mixing paddle for my power drill, and I paint 3 or more houses each summer, so I'm not a novice painter.

Any suggestions or tips from folks who have used this product would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance!

Haven't used it, however, let me know how it works out. I have a bit
of deck that needs another coat soon. Like before November.
14x20

I don't know if this helps Dogfish. I too have a huge deck that I'm going to have to restore and would like to know that what I choose to apply will last.

It seems from reading some of the reviews that the Synta might peel, blister or chip.

This information is old and I don't know if Synta has since changed its formulation of the product.
http://50.22.131.43/component/kunena/93-wood-and-deck-restoration-tips/1613-synta-deck-restore

Let me know what you found to be the best.

The reviews I've read on Amazon.com were pretty positive. Talked with a painter in Aberdeen who uses is, and loves it. From what I've seen in comments, most of the folks using it and having bad experiences were mostly inexperienced do-it-your-selfers.

Most Pros don't by crap from home depot either.If you have a contractors license why not by from a distributor they would gladly like your business .

If I knew a distributor that carried the same product I would. I have accounts at a number of small lumber yards, and have contractor pricing there, as wells as credit lines, etc, and I do business with them a lot. Superfly put the wood order together for my house at one of his previous employers, so I do my best to do business with friends and local stores.

Having an HD Pro card saves money at times, like the 20% off of all paint supplies I got for my parents house and material for my deck.

The Depot and Lowes may have crappy studs you have to sort through, but they are also open 7 days a week, sometimes at late as 10pm, and are open full hours on Sundays, not 11-3.

That tube of Quad Pro is the same where ever you buy it.

I'm already sold on the product, and was really just looking for tips or tricks using the stuff. Not looking to debate small vs mega hardware stores.

Thanks for your opinion FP.

[ No serious professional painters use Home Depot's paint ever, even if a homeowner gave it to them. Home Depot sells low end, low grade products at high prices to make a quick buck. like there plumbing fixtures different part number than Rossen or Keller due plastic [Bleeeeep!] inside tried finding a handle for a customer a while back Moen product contacted moen and they said it was a home depot model could not get handle 5 years old put new fixture in from Keller Supply some [Bleeeeep!] just ain't worth the convince

pros shop at Home Depot... pros dont ask questions to the people that work at HD tho...

DF, i have never personally used it, but have seen it applied, general rule of thumb, anything that comes with a product such as a "roller" ect, is usually garbage, sounds like your on the right track.. just match the texture of the roller with a higher grade one and you should be golden...post some pics up when its finnished...

R2,

You are absolutely correct about knowing what to buy, and what not to buy at Home Depot, same with Cabela's and other large chains (WALMART). I get my plywood, studs, and any cedar from my local place down the road. HD wood is generally crap. Not everything is.

I'm not a full time painter, just a banker who helps friends and family out every summer with their homes, about 35 or so in the past 12 years. They buy the paint and lunch and dinner and I supply the labor. I also paint a home or two a year for my bank. Two homes done this year so far, three more to go and I'll be done.

I would venture a guess that half of the homes I've done have been with Behr, while the rest have been Sherwin Williams, Ben Moore and Parker (Parker is made by Behr). If you prep the surface correctly, it is hard to screw up paint. Poor prep = poor result. I spend more time on prep than actual painting. Never had a failure with any of these brands of paints, and the application rates have been about the same through my airless. I've easily shot 1,000-1,500 gallons of paint. Not a lot by pro standards, but certainly more than Joe Schmoe home owner.

Mom and Dad bought the high end Behr Ultra. It is what they wanted. I didn't argue. Nuff said?

Wanna bring this topic back on course, please? Thanks!

Well, I have a question. I don't know how true my belief is, but maybe you guys who paint alot can enlighten me........

water base paint works best (which means penetrates wood the best) when lightly dampened.....which pretty much means early morning....otherwise the paint will stay pretty much on the surface and dry there where it may or may not adhear well.

Right? Wrong? "Get off my thread!"? Any response considered.....thanks

preperation of the surface is key, not when you paint, how damp the wood is, ect

Slab,

A 60-65 degree day with a slight breeze is my favorite temp to paint in. Good slow dry. You never want to paint on bare wood (T1-11 or anything else), unless your are priming. Have them tint your primer, it helps. They may gripe, but they'll do it. Prime is part of prep.

Early morning clear mornings can have dew, late evening can develop dew. Dew is not good for painting, especially on previously painted surfaces. Virgin Hardi is a bit more forgiving, so is flat paint. Let the dew dry if the previous coat is satin or higher sheen. Back roll everything, except for Hardi. Hardie is spray and don't touch. Medium first coat, light second coat. Lots of Hardi tricks if you use it. I shot my 4,300 SF house and garage with 2 coats by myself in a day, but it was properly prepped.

Temp and humidity matter. I try not to paint in the heat of the day when it is over 80 degrees. Good temp range is 50-75. Humidity 45-65%. Sometimes you just have to paint when you have a window of clear weather.

Project at hand:
Back deck prepped, TSP and bleach applied with a garden sprayer, let soak, scrub & a light pressure wash @ 1500 PSI. Light duty pressure washers don't destroy wood, or etch your concrete.




Front porch prepped, same as back. It is covered, so it wasn't as weather beaten.



Color chosen was Timberline. It is a perfect match to the Sunwood (not available at Home Depot ). Back deck benches and uprights are done. Tomorrow I work on the ballisters, railings and other verticle pieces on the front deck. Finished at 905pm, so I didn't get pics of the finished back deck benches and uprights.

Thanks for the great info.
Great looking deck!
Do you fish?

horry [Bleeeeep!]! do you have to respond to every thread? cot damn.

Andy prep job looks great as in any thing Prep is a key to job well done

Andy,

Thanks for reminding me why I chose Trex. Spring cleaning and rinse the green scum off and good until next year. I do love cedar, but we have that over at the condo, and I'm getting too old for that kind of maintenance.

Sg

This should be good for 8-10 years, at which time I'll probably replace the deck floor.

+1
too funny

I'm all for letting RH wash and finish the underside of the deck.