Hi Gents,
I've had a muzzle loader for a lot of years, but I have never hunted with it. My questions are: how often should you change powder charges and what is the best way to unload it? Also, if you fire it to unload, what is the best way to clean? I'll be packing in with minimal gear and cleaning while sitting around the fire. Thanks for the tips.

Ray

Hey Ray,

I'm sure lots of folks do it differently, but here's what works for me.

First, I'm incredibly anal about making sure the initial load is good/dry. I always clean thoroughly and then dry thoroughly and then dry a little more. When I'm sure my gun is dry, I fire off three caps and then immaeidatly load up my hunting load. Then, I tape over the muzzle with a single layer of masking tape, I make sure the bead is good all the way around, and then I trim the excess. Then, I always keep the nipple covered with something. If I'm out hunting, the cap is on. If I'm driving or in camp for the night, I put a length of pipe cleaner all the way in to keep moisture out.

I've made several 6-8 days hunts, some in rain and snow. At the conclusion of the hunt, my gun has always gone "BANG" lke it's supposed to.

So, I don't normally unload at all on a hunt unless it's on an animal, and it has worked well. If I do unload, I start my very anal routine all over again. I've hunted muzzlelader for over 25 years, and have only misfired in the field once (long story about how my system failed me).

I figure, be over anal and don't miss the opportunity when it does come.

Whatever you work out, just be sure to keep the water out. I know way to many guys with stories of the huge bull standing around while they tried to get there gun to go boom.

P.S. My one helpful hint: Years agoa, I stole a bottle of my wifes clean nail polish for my possibles pouch. When I hunt wet country, I put a cap on the nipple and then paint a ring of clear nail polish on it. When it dries, it's a total vapor barrier. My advice. Steal the clear and leave the red stuff home. The guys in camp will go easier on you.

Good luck!

Dan

I was wondering why your nails always looked so shiny. Dan does have some pretty feet.

Same thing for me on preparation. Start dry and you will usually stay dry. Don't use traditional black powder, it is hydrophilic, meaning is will readily take in moisture from the environment, more so than Pyrodex, but 777 or Clear Shot are the best for wet weather.

I will also put a strip of tape over the end, but I have had better luck with different types of tape, just a single 1" wide strip of duct tape. I hunt rainy western Washington in November and December for deer. I will usually leave tabs on both side of the barrels making it easy to remove the balance of the remaining tape.

I used cap grippers, made by CVA. These are little orange rubber grippers attached to a "daisy". I attach a daisy to my capper, so I have plenty. The cap grippers make it easier to "un-cap" when you reach your vehicle. The cap grippers also keep the cap "exposed to the elements", same as the nail polish.

The picture below shows what happens when you take care of your rifle and hunt in the rain.

If you look at the barrel you can see a spare "muzzle cover" about 6" from the muzzle. There are also two cap gripper daisy things attached to my capper, in my shirt pocket. If I look soaked, its because I was freakin' soaked.

Start dry, keep it dry on BOTH ends, and develop a routine. One other trick to dry out your barrel, but not foul it up horribly, put a patch on the jag down your barrel, and back it off an inch or so from the breech, then fire your caps. This makes sure that you really dry out that breech.

If I'm worried about the load for any reason, I just fire it off and start from the beginning. You only get one shot.

Thanks Guys,
Great info from both of you. I hope you both get drawn for Bull tags!
Ray

Gees Andy,

It looks like you've been out making meat again. Congrats. So far, all I've been able to sneak up on were a few carrots and some celery.