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#860421 - 10/01/13 06:11 PM Replacing floor in drift boat
steelhead59 Offline
Juvenile at Sea

Registered: 01/09/07
Posts: 150
Loc: Olympia, WA
Hi, i am replacing the old floor in my drift boat and am ready to order the new diamond plate. How thick should i get ?

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#860426 - 10/01/13 06:22 PM Re: Replacing floor in drift boat [Re: steelhead59]
Coho Offline
River Nutrients

Registered: 03/09/99
Posts: 2566
Loc: Muk
Yes diamond plate and you will never have to deal with it again

thickness I would have to ck mine

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#860431 - 10/01/13 06:54 PM Re: Replacing floor in drift boat [Re: Coho]
steelhead59 Offline
Juvenile at Sea

Registered: 01/09/07
Posts: 150
Loc: Olympia, WA
My boat is an 1979 16 x 48 alumaweld, it still has the original floor in it and the original blue paint on the outside. It has one soft spot up front. The old floor needs to go. I am going to spruce her up with a new floor and paint the outside gloss white.

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#860434 - 10/01/13 07:07 PM Re: Replacing floor in drift boat [Re: steelhead59]
YBD
Unregistered


My Pavati has marble. Heavy and gaudy like the rest of the boat, but it was worth it.


Edited by YBD (10/01/13 07:09 PM)

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#860436 - 10/01/13 07:17 PM Re: Replacing floor in drift boat [Re: ]
STRIKE ZONE Offline
GOOD LUCK

Registered: 08/09/00
Posts: 11969
Loc: Hobart,Wa U.S.A
1/8".?.Good luck,
SZ

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#860452 - 10/01/13 09:12 PM Re: Replacing floor in drift boat [Re: STRIKE ZONE]
Salmo g. Offline
River Nutrients

Registered: 03/08/99
Posts: 13726
I think 1/8" would require a lot of support (joists?). 3/16" is 50% heavier, but might make up the weight difference in less support. In any event, it's not like you'll have many square feet in your boat.

Sg

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#860460 - 10/01/13 09:29 PM Re: Replacing floor in drift boat [Re: Salmo g.]
Direct-Drive Offline
ExtenZe Field Tester

Registered: 11/10/09
Posts: 7961
Loc: Vancouver, WA
I'm betting that the boat builders use 1/8".
Hell, DB bottoms are 1/8".
Also diamond plate is measured on the flat...the diamonds would add a little more stiffness.

Still like SkidGuard better, though.
_________________________
NO STEP ON SNEK

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#860478 - 10/01/13 10:47 PM Re: Replacing floor in drift boat [Re: Direct-Drive]
metaladdiction Offline
Returning Adult

Registered: 02/22/10
Posts: 433
Marine ply with sanded epoxy works great. Lasts along time and you don't have to worry about dealing with slick floor boards in the winter.

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#860787 - 10/03/13 11:59 AM Re: Replacing floor in drift boat [Re: steelhead59]
jam session Offline
Returning Adult

Registered: 01/08/02
Posts: 261
Loc: Lake Goodwin
Originally Posted By: steelhead59
My boat is an 1979 16 x 48 alumaweld, it still has the original floor in it and the original blue paint on the outside. It has one soft spot up front. The old floor needs to go. I am going to spruce her up with a new floor and paint the outside gloss white.


Hey I have the exact same boat and it needs the same. Please post up a pic when you finish this project. I'm leaning towards coated marine plywood instead of diamond plate but am still deciding.

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#860910 - 10/03/13 10:14 PM Re: Replacing floor in drift boat [Re: jam session]
Keeper Offline
Returning Adult

Registered: 05/30/08
Posts: 273
Loc: Seattle
Diamond plate is not advised. You'd be better off cutting the plate (3/16 5086 H116) to fit, masking the edges or around stanchions with blue tape, cutting the tape edges with a razor blade to make radiuses etc, grinding (4-1/2" with an 80 grit flapper) the main field of the floor plate and painting on a non skid like Matson or equivalent. Commercial guys don't use diamond plate. For the builder, diamond only comes in small sized sheets and when you cut it to fit its a pain to get the diamonds to come out nice. you end up grinding off half diamonds etc. The other big one is that aluminum, when it gets glycol or slippery crap on it is a skating rink in extra toughs. The big one is when you slip and go down on your knees on diamond plate, you'll never use it again. Oh, 3/16 decking is normal with a 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 x 1/8 wall sq tube stiffener on 16 inch centers. Skip welded 3-9 staggered to support the plate. I know its my opinion and lots of you have diamond plate all over and love it or whatever but I've got a lot of experience with this and I wouldn't have it in my boat.

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#860916 - 10/03/13 10:38 PM Re: Replacing floor in drift boat [Re: Keeper]
Direct-Drive Offline
ExtenZe Field Tester

Registered: 11/10/09
Posts: 7961
Loc: Vancouver, WA
Originally Posted By: Keeper
Diamond plate is not advised. You'd be better off cutting the plate (3/16 5086 H116) to fit, masking the edges or around stanchions with blue tape, cutting the tape edges with a razor blade to make radiuses etc, grinding (4-1/2" with an 80 grit flapper) the main field of the floor plate and painting on a non skid like Matson or equivalent. Commercial guys don't use diamond plate. For the builder, diamond only comes in small sized sheets and when you cut it to fit its a pain to get the diamonds to come out nice. you end up grinding off half diamonds etc. The other big one is that aluminum, when it gets glycol or slippery crap on it is a skating rink in extra toughs. The big one is when you slip and go down on your knees on diamond plate, you'll never use it again. Oh, 3/16 decking is normal with a 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 x 1/8 wall sq tube stiffener on 16 inch centers. Skip welded 3-9 staggered to support the plate. I know its my opinion and lots of you have diamond plate all over and love it or whatever but I've got a lot of experience with this and I wouldn't have it in my boat.



3/16" 5086 floor in a DB ??
Adding more stringers ??
J F C the bottom is only 1/8".

Although I'm not a fan, diamond plate is the industry standard now.

Make a template out of cardboard.
I'd be fine-tuning with the belt sander a helluva lot more than with the peanut grinder.
Easier to get a long, smooth back-cut with a belt sander.
_________________________
NO STEP ON SNEK

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#860937 - 10/04/13 12:31 AM Re: Replacing floor in drift boat [Re: Direct-Drive]
eugene1 Offline
Spawner

Registered: 09/17/10
Posts: 877
Loc: out there...
No idea about which diamond plate to use, but I redid one boat floor (plywood) and threw the old one out before using it as a template for the new one. Bad move.

Something to consider,

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#860978 - 10/04/13 11:22 AM Re: Replacing floor in drift boat [Re: eugene1]
DrifterWA Offline
River Nutrients

Registered: 04/25/00
Posts: 5035
Loc: East of Aberdeen, West of Mont...
Diamond plate for 95% of the year.....the 5% is during cold weather....slip and slide.

I'd do diamond plate!!!!!!!
_________________________
"Worse day sport fishing, still better than the best day working"

"I thought growing older, would take longer"

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#860988 - 10/04/13 12:05 PM Re: Replacing floor in drift boat [Re: DrifterWA]
I'm So Metal Offline
Parr

Registered: 05/20/13
Posts: 43
Loc: Hamnation
I just ripped out the rotten wood floors in my DB and replaced with 1/8" diamond plate. Save the old floor to use as stencil. Pretty simple project and well worth the time.

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#861277 - 10/06/13 11:10 AM Re: Replacing floor in drift boat [Re: I'm So Metal]
Fishin Bear Offline
Alevin

Registered: 11/17/07
Posts: 10
I think it depends on your skill level, I was planning to replace the floor in my 17X54 Fish Rite with diamond plate but decided to use marine grade plywood instead because I am more comfortable working with wood. the first thing I did was cut the wood to fit using the old floor, then I glued non slip flooring to it just like original equipment and marked the location of the stringers. Then I drilled new holes through the wood into the stringers using a drill bit stop so as to avoid penetrating the bottom. To secure the floor I used the same type rivets the factory did using an air powered rivet gun (highly recommended), replaced the trim and it is as good as new.

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#861294 - 10/06/13 01:40 PM Re: Replacing floor in drift boat [Re: Fishin Bear]
SideDriftin' Offline
Returning Adult

Registered: 04/14/07
Posts: 349
Loc: Edmonds
Doing a diamond plate floor is just like doing a wood floor. Trace out old floor board on the back (smooth side) of diamond plate, grab a Skil saw with a sharp carbide blade and cut away. You will have to cut at about half the speed of wood but it cuts easy. Wear some kind of eye protection as aluminum shavings suck in the eyes (don't ask how I know this). grin

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#861299 - 10/06/13 02:20 PM Re: Replacing floor in drift boat [Re: SideDriftin']
Direct-Drive Offline
ExtenZe Field Tester

Registered: 11/10/09
Posts: 7961
Loc: Vancouver, WA
Originally Posted By: SideDriftin'
Doing a diamond plate floor is just like doing a wood floor. Trace out old floor board on the back (smooth side) of diamond plate, grab a Skil saw with a sharp carbide blade and cut away. You will have to cut at about half the speed of wood but it cuts easy. Wear some kind of eye protection as aluminum shavings suck in the eyes (don't ask how I know this). grin

It's similar.
Clamp your work down...aluminum will accumulate on the blade and the work will want to "buck" occasionally.
To minimize that effect, use industrial stick wax.
Cheap, works well for tapping, too.
Comes in a tube (caulking tube size), just run your blade into it to coat the blade.

I would cut a touch big and finish with a belt sander where the cut is visible, such as in the front area.

Edit:
Yes, eye pro is a must. A face shield would be best.
Aluminum chips fly in a very nasty way.
They hurt when they hit, too.

_________________________
NO STEP ON SNEK

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#861406 - 10/07/13 08:24 AM Re: Replacing floor in drift boat [Re: Direct-Drive]
Jerry Garcia Offline



Registered: 10/13/00
Posts: 9013
Loc: everett
Originally Posted By: Direct-Drive
Originally Posted By: SideDriftin'
Doing a diamond plate floor is just like doing a wood floor. Trace out old floor board on the back (smooth side) of diamond plate, grab a Skil saw with a sharp carbide blade and cut away. You will have to cut at about half the speed of wood but it cuts easy. Wear some kind of eye protection as aluminum shavings suck in the eyes (don't ask how I know this). grin

It's similar.
Clamp your work down...aluminum will accumulate on the blade and the work will want to "buck" occasionally.
To minimize that effect, use industrial stick wax.
Cheap, works well for tapping, too.
Comes in a tube (caulking tube size), just run your blade into it to coat the blade.

I would cut a touch big and finish with a belt sander where the cut is visible, such as in the front area.

Edit:
Yes, eye pro is a must. A face shield would be best.
Aluminum chips fly in a very nasty way.
They hurt when they hit, too.




Long sleeves and button up.
_________________________
would the boy you were be proud of the man you are

Growing old ain't for wimps
Lonnie Gane

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