Had a blast catching my first decent sized steelhead (up to 15lbs) on jigs this past week. As a beginner I thought I'd pass along my comments and ask a couple of questions along the way.

1. Jig hooks: in general I was very disappointed in how poorly the hooks on steelhead jigs performed. Yes, lots of times they bent out on snags enabling me to save the jig but what use is it when the same hook straightens out under the pull of a strong fish in a good current? There wasn't one store-bought jig I had with me that didn't fail. I was particularly PO'ed when I broke the hook on the only marabou jig I owned in purple and green after nailing 33" and 35" bucks within 15 minutes of one another.

Send me an email if you want a list of the manufacturers whose jigs have weak hooks. I'd rather pay an extra $0.30 a jig for a strong hook even if I lose twice as many on snags. Anyone have any suggestions in the pre-tied category? Andy? Johnny C? Jigman?

[For people who tie their own, Offshore Angler (Bass Pro's saltwater arm) sells 1/8 oz plain jig heads with strong hooks. Gamakatsu and Kalin also sell plain heads with strong hooks. I use these in the salt with grubs and jerk baits.]

2. Dink floats can be cut down a lot: I found that the amount of lead needed to get the jig to the right depth was always a lot less than the amount of lead needed to balance even the skinny dink floats. As a result I did a lot of stream-side carving and reconfiguring. Please let me know if someone has a supplier of 4" and 6" skinny fixed dink floats that balance with 3 x #4 split shot or 2 x #3, plus a 1/8 oz jig. You need a pretty could reel to cast this light a contraption but the resulting set up had to be more sensitive than the more heavily weighted 'traditional' approach.

3. Jigs do work well on stale fish, but no miracles were observed. Most of the time we drift fished small gear. When the fish went off the bite and we could see a few out in the run that hadn't been hooked then the jig rod would come out. Several times I hooked fish -- a couple on a plain black jig (no eyes). Orange was an even better color.

A couple of other times we could see steelhead suspending between 1' and 11' deep in pools and even jigs drifted by their noses weren't enough to do the trick. Anyone have any other ideas for these type of switched-off fish?

4. Custom float rods are cumbersome to use in small drift boats. My 10 1/2' float rod worked great the 15% of the time I used it. The rest of the time I had to break it down to store it out of the way in the 14' drift boat we were rowing. This got old quickly, so I used a 9' light drift rod starting on Day 2. I couldn't keep as much line off the water but it was easier to use and that made it worthwhile.

5. Had problems feeding line into the drift off a baitcaster. I was using 10lb Maxima Green and Shimano Chronarch, but I imagine the problem was that the cut-down dink floats and the weights were too light to generate enough force to smoothly pull line off the spool. I ended up stripping line with my free hand and feeding it out before the current started dragging the float unnaturally. This approach often resulted in some slack line when setting the hook.

6. I can't figure out how to use a spinning reel and float jigs (unless I grow another arm). I had the bail open and line was feeding out smoothly but there would still be some small amount of slack between the reel and the index finger of my rod hand. A fish would hit, I'd clamp the line against the rod and set the hook. The fish would do one of several things, the worst being run right at me and the best running downstream so I could feed all the slack out under tension and flip the bail. Several fish didn't do a lot for the first few seconds, leaving my rod hand occupied pinching the line to maintain tension until my reel hand could put the slack line under tension and feed some of it through my fingers as the fish began to ran. That left me with an open bail and two occupied hands. I was trying to trip the bail by whacking the handle against my face. My fishing companions found this pretty funny. I also dropped about half the fish I hooked in this manner. I know I could allow some slack in the system by cranking the handle like crazy, but is that what everyone else does?

7. I hooked fish in surprisingly dead water. I thought the fish would all be in the softer cushion near current seams. Most were, but I hooked several in frog water out of the main current -- water so slow that the float barely moved. Got a couple more in back eddies. I'd read about this on the Board and in other publications but there's nothing like experiencing something first hand to sink a point home.

Having said all that I had a ball with the jigs -- watching that float sink and then seeing a silver snake start wriggling up near the surface is a great buzz. My thanks to the Board gurus for all their pre-trip advice.

Howdy Snagly,
I like to think I've stripped down the float/jig style to a very basic, versitile method. Beau Mac maribou jig hook's will let you use 20lb. test with no drag skipping a fresh Chum across the surface (of course I'm exaggerating) Sometimes an offering a couple ft. under the surface is likely to elicit a strike because of the "if I gotta move to inspect it, I'm gonna inspect it good" need to justify expenditure of calories. For stale seemingly uninterested fish, that don't spook from my jig. I'll try every size/color at my disposal, It never ceases to thrill me how a cast of the 10th or so color is what those fish wanted. For longer distance control the Styrofoam weighted floats with the concave top's allow for mending not possible with Dink's. It's tough to describe how to do what is second nature for me controlling line off a spinning reel. My left hand retrieves and flip's the bail with no conscious thought, as I free spool I position my rod tip near waters surface, roughly in my line of sight to the float. Then with bail open I lift up keeping my hand on the bail, to about eye level. Close the bail, now lower the rod tip to the water surface as needed to get a couple yd.s of drag free drift. Repeating this throughout the drift keeps me within a couple crank's when the bobber goes down. I crack's me up when I hear people say bobber fishing isn't as exciting, because they can't feel the take. What I've learned is that after a while a bobber going under because of a fish is recognizable from one hitting a stick ect. Adrenaline rush, then when you crank down on a head-shaking chromer the adrenaline flows again. Canadian's Rock.

Snagly,

Humpy's got it right about the hooks. Beau Macs, and some of the other brands that are tied specifically for steelheading have beefy hooks, but many of the packaged jigs have fine-wire hooks that can be straightened out on a fish, especially if you're bank fishing. The heavier Mustad and Gammy jig hooks are definitely stronger. The key with the hooks is to keep them tacky sharp at all times so that the current pulling on the bobber is enough to get that hook stuck in the top of the snout while you deal with the slack that may be in your line.

As for the floats, if you're into lighter rigs, try the Thill floats from Lindy Little Joe. They'll stand up with just the weight of the jig, for making subtle presentations. They're pricey floats, but work well especially for "boondogging" jigs from a boat, since the silicone sleeves they come with allow quick adjustments to the depth of the jig.

I'm still for a long rod. I usually use a 10 footer, which is probably more than you need from a boat, but you really miss any length you give up when you're on the bank. Keeping your line off the water is the key to avoiding the slack you mentioned that occurs in your line. It's much easier to "mend" your line and keep it off the water with the longer rod.

As for the hassles you had with a spinning reel, I'm not sure waht to say. I think you'll find that it will become easier with experience using them with floats. There are times when you'll have LOTS of slack in the line to keep it from dragging your flaot downstream. If the float goes down at that time, if your hooks are as sharp as they should be, you should still have time to reel up the slack and get a good hook-set. Keep in mind that as soon as you start reeling up the slack, the current on the bobber is going to pull on the jig and give you a chance to get that slack up before the fish spits it. The key is to get that quick snap of the rod when you get all the slack out of the line, don't just start playing the fish without setting the hook.

You might think about trying a floating braided line with your spinning reel. This means your line won't sink and start dragging your bobber downstream, since your line will flaot and move downstream at the same speed as your float. I have floating line on one of my float rods and I like the way it works, but haven't used it long enough to give you an honest evaluation.

I'm with you. A dunking float is as good as a fish chewing a bait, just different. I still get a Woodrow from either one, but I'm learning to like float/jig fishing more and more. Glad your early experience was productive and it sounds like you're on your way to becoming an accomplished jig fisherman. Just a little fine-tuning on that spinning reel technique, maybe, but I'm sure you'll get used to it.


Fish on..........

Snagly,
I know what you are experiencing with your hooks. When I started out tying my jigs, I used just the plain jane jig hooks, not knowing much about them. I have since switched to a hook that is designed for steelhead and salmon. These hooks are al ot heavier wire and just look stronger. I had complaints with the older hooks, but none since I made the switch. If you want to talk to me via email, my email is answer@techline.com

Thanks,
Andy Matthews

Snagly
Welcome to jig fishing. I too experienced the weak hook problem until I shopped around and like the others mentioned, Beau Mac has strong hooks on their 1/8oz size and bigger jigs. Lately I have ordered from rainbowjigs@aol.com and have been very pleased with their jigs. The hooks are very strong. I have landed a few fresh nates in the mid teens with no problem.

I fish smaller rivers and instead of dink floats, I use the smaller cork bobbers. I thread the line through the bobber and tie directly to the jig. That way I don't have to worry about balancing the float. Also I only have one knot which helps when using lighter line for summer Steelhead.

I almost always use a spinning reel when jig fishing. When it come to free spooling, I mend the line just enough to keep a minimum amount of slack. I've been freespooling a jig 50 yards downriver, had a take down and successfully hooked and landed a fish. A reel with a fast retrieve helps. I'm currently using a Shimano Symetre.
Mark

I have a couple of comments on your thoughts.1.Jig hooks: Unfortunately most jigs on the market are made for fish other than steelhead and salmon and have lite wire hooks which are fine for walleye and panfish but don't work well for steelhead unless your using lite line, 6 lbs or less. Then I actually prefer a lite wire hook As for pre-tied jigs contact Rainbow Jigs at rainbowjigs@aol.com and they can set you up. They have 5 sizes and the 1/8th, 1/4 and 3/8th oz heads have hooks designed for salmon and steelhead. The 1/32nd and 1/16th oz heads have lite wire hooks and are meant for lite line fishing, though they have a mold being made for the 1/16th oz jigs that takes a heavy wire hook. They also sell jigheads for guys who tie there own or for fishing the pink worm. 2.Dink floats: Don't use them, don't like them. When I've had to use them(windy conditions) I also cut them down to a point where the jig itself will float it upright. I will sometimes use a splitshot directly under the float. 3.Stale fish: i've found patience to be the key here, as long as the fish aren't spooked. I also like a plain black jig, but usually with eyes.4.Custom float rods: the rods I use are long (11 1/2-13 feet) but I do the bulk of my fishing from the bank because I like to hike stretchs of water and get away from the crowds. In the boat I use a custom built Loomis 10'9" spinning rod that seems to work fine. I could see how it could get in the way in a 14' boat.5. bait casters: Don't use them for float fishing, prefer a spinning reel(Shimano Symetre).6.spinning reels and float fishing: You will always have some slack but with the longer rods you can move a ton of line on the hookset and will usually get them. i leave the bail open and have my left hand on the handle.If the float goes under I crack the bail shut and set hard and fast. I usually have the rod well over my right shoulder. Always set straight up, never sweep the fish to the side or you'll miss them nearly every time.7. Slack water: Those fish are everywhere at times. I've hit them in water so shallow you'd never guess they were there, with the jig set 12" below the float. I've seen them stacked by the hundreds in pools in the summer that had very little flow. It tests your patience to fish that water. Jig fishing is a ball and is my 1st love. I know when that float goes under I'm in!

Jigman,

Any thoughts from you on floating lines? I know you've fished jigs for quite a while.....ever try the braided lines? Just curious if you have any feelings either way.......


Fish on....

I use Excaliber mono from Silver Thread on my spinning reels. It's low stretch, but I think you need some stretch for steelhead. Braids do float, which is nice but you need to use a mono leader. I prefer to use some fly line floatant if I need anything on my line.Braids are good for some things but I don't think jig fishing is one of them.

Dan S.,

Where do you get Thill Floats? I haven't heard of them before. Are they foam, balsa, or what? I live in your neck of the woods and I was hoping I could find some decent floats closer then the Tacoma area. As you may know, the local selection in the Olympia area is nothing to write home about.

caught many steelhead on JOHN'S JIGS furnished by superfly and his company on the salmon river last year and also cook creek.

At the risk of sounding like a broken record let me once again second Jigman's endorsement of Rainbow Jigs. In one day last year I lost three big steelhead to bent jighead hooks. I got in touch with Steve (?) at rainbow and he came up with some heavier hooks on the heads that have done the trick since.

Bruce

SI,

You can get the Thill floats from Lindy Little Joe 218-829-1714. They are painted balsa floats that use a silicone sleeve system to affix your line to the float. The ones I prefer are the Turbomaster III and the 5.5" Brute Force, but they have other good styles. They'll send you a catalog if you call them.

Fish on........

I'll endorse the rainbow jigheads also. Got some lead heads before I went to Alaska, and they were all the way from 1/4 ounce down to 1/32oz. I used the 1/4 and 1/8 size, and was able to really lean on some fish without straightening the hooks. Also made up some dumbell eye jigs on Gammy heavy wires, and they worked great also.

If you are interested in floats, go to www.rodworks.com and look at their selection of cork and clear urethane floats. Great price, and good service. These are all handmade, and very reasonably priced. They come in sizes that will handle up to a full ounce of lead. (No problem casting those snagly)

Oh by the way, why are you guys so in to jigs and floats. I used them for an entire week, and didn't catch a fish. THEY DON'T WORK. LOL HeHeHeHeHeHeHe. Gotta go, I have to tie up more jigs. Oops, I slipped.

I'll have to put my vote in also for the Thill floats. I use the smaller turbomaster in the summer, just one small split shot and the jig is all you need to get that particular flaot to stand sraight. Dan S. mentioned the larger turbo master, which is a great winter time float when you like too get down too those low matobolized fish.

I hear a lot of complaining about the floats you people use over your Jigs. I personally use the medium and small plastic floats you can get at Bi-Mart that require a bobber stop but when filled with water halfway or as much as you want and the top painted your favorite color (leave the bottom clear I paint mine flo. green). You will be able to cast them farther in wind and see them in almost any light.They will go under the water with the slighest of touch by a fish because they are almost neutral boyant with the water in them. They are cheap. Less than a dollar depending on what size you get.They will break if they hit hard enough on a rock but they will take a good beating.

[This message has been edited by Lilcorky1 (edited 05-08-2000).]

I like to customize my dinks also I cut them down to 2 1/2" or so ,I'm interested in the thill floats , the problem with the litle water plastics is they make too much noise when the hit the water and spook the fish in low water conditions just my .02

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Row Quietly and fish a Catraft( formerly Steelheader boy)
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