At 30 yards my field points group great. I switched to broadheads and they grouped right a good foot. I am using a left handed bow with 55pd and draw length of 28 and a quarter. The arrows are 400 spine 100grain. Do I need a stiffer arrow or opposite? I hope I used correct terminology, I am a newbie.

Which broadhead? 2, 3 or 4 blades? Some broadheads will cause the arrow to fly very differently than a field point. I went with a 3 blade Shuttle T. They group the same as my field points. Just my observations.

As far as arrow spine is concerned, I went with what my bow shop suggested.

There are much more experienced bow hunters here. Hopefully JTD will chime in, or one of the other guys. I'm a newb as well.

I agree with 1LM.

it is common to have to make a minor adjustment to your sights to account for broadhead flight PROVIDED they are grouping consistently at your max hunting range.

All of this is fixable though.

If you are familiar with your equipment, I would GUESS that all you need is to adjust your rest... A minor adjustment. I really doubt you'd need to change arrows if you successfully paper tested for this combination. Most rests have enough adjustment these days to account for ANY arrow. GUESSING again here, I'd say your rest is too stiff (if it is some type of plunger system) or it is set too far away from the riser and it is forcing the arrow to fishtale fletch left. And with additional steering from the broadhead, your arrow stabilizes once it's left the bow, in that same formation.

The correct solution though, and it goes for ANYONE with any set up, is to do a bare shaft test. It is the only way to fine tune for proper broadhead flight.
The reason I say it goes for anyone is because, even of you have good groups with your broadheads, and you think everything is great, eliminating subtle inconsistencies are just as critical because these inconsistencies will be amplified by strong winds, a poor release or something like string contact with clothing. If something can go wrong it will. Secondly, when the bow is really dialed, you can feel and hear it and any misses are then all on you and maintaining consistent proper form. That is when you really start to notice things like grip torque.

Follow the instructions for a bare shaft test are all over the net. Beeman used to have it on their website but now charge for a kit (??). You could easily do this in an hour before the season, or afterwards if you think it is good enough or you are worried you'll throw it all out of whack.


In a nutshell, shoot a good three arrow group at 20 yards. Strip the fletch off one arrow and shoot for the same exact impact point. The results will probably blow you away... But your adjustment to your rest is probably minute. Trust me when I say all your arrows, fletch or not, will fly the same and you can put ANY broadhead on there. On a side note, the necessity of all of these low profile or mechanical broadheads just prove the shooter doesn't know the other half of the equation. Heck- you could put a Pterodactyl out there and it'd fly true.

Have a meeting now. PM me if someone has a question. I don't know everything, I wouldn't even say I am an expert... I started 35 years ago, ran a shop in college and enjoyed fooling around with this for years.

One more thing, tuning is never done. I is just a state of good enough always. Things like wheel lean, nock wear and string stretch make it an 'always moving target'

Get it?? Moving target.

Thank you for your help everyone. I did use 2 different types of broad heads, both 4 blade. one was a slick trick and the other was a muzzy.

Both grouped right about a foot at 30 yrds and grouped straight on at 20yrds. I will test the rest which is a whisker biscuit rest, not a complete circular one but a 3 patch one that is supposed to allow the fletch's pass through without touching.

Thanks again

Joe

Sounds like a Hostage rest- same I am shooting. I have the pro version which is aluminum and has incremental marks to make fine adjustments. There are much fancier rests out there but I am only a hunter and it gives plenty of adjustment for me.

If it is that rest, you have another variable with the brushes that hold the arrow. As you shoot, the brushes tend to wear like a toothbrush. Consider replacing them if your groups open up, or if you are in the field, just rotating them around will make a difference also. Usually it is the bottom one that gets the most wear.

Hope any of that helps.

Again, my guess is the rest is slightly too far away from the riser, assuming of course, your broadheads are the same weight.


Good luck Amigo.

Thanks again, I have only owned the bow a few weeks and practice in my yard. I joined KBH archers which has a good range and a 3D course. I will let you know how it goes.

Joe

If the bow is tuned and arrows spined correctly, you never need to move the sight from field points to broadheads.
When an arrow is released from a bow, out of tune or a shaft not spined correctly, the shaft will compress, thus moving the point either left or right of center. So if it compresses two inches to the right of center, it will recover to center then compesate a tad less then two inches to the left, this will repeat itself smaller each time until it has regained center with field points. Add a broadhead to the same setup and its initional reaction will be ten fold. Not allowing it to compensate as much. Meaning your point of impact will now be to the right, and sights will need to follow impact. To bring back to center
Broadheads are like wings and grab air, if they are spined and tuned, and the paper shots both bare and fleched show perfect holes. They will shoot the same as your field points.

I also like to shoot bare shafts close, if my shafts are 30". I will stand 40" back from paper. The arrows first action is what tells the story. Standing any further back, you are likely to see it's reaction, and then your tuning toward the problem not the correction