Went out yesturday and priced coat-it. Ended up getting at Sportco in Fife for about $35. Aurburn Sports & Marine didn't have any and GI Joes had it but wanted $55 for same amount (8 lb) can. Outdoor Emporium didn't have any too. The stuff is made in Lynnwood Wa. but no phone or web info on can or inserted paper flyer. Tahnks to all who posted info on using coat-it. Can't wait to give it a try.

Hey R-n-R:
I was just getting around to posting the same question about the driftboat bottom coverings. I missed the discussion you refer to, what was the topic or the date?

Thanks!

Be sure you get it very clean and use acetone t oclean it. I had t odo mine 2x the first I didn't get it scuffed deap enough and I didn't get it clean.

dcrzfitter

Here is another thought. A few years ago I had the bottom of my sled sprayed with "Rhino Lining". Sounds weird but hear me out.
It was an old boat with a few leaks. I had it sprayed without any texture. It came out smooth (no extra drag in the water) and it sealed all the leaks. That stuff is also self sealing. I have run it up on the gravel and beached it on everything from shale to volcanic rock. 4 years old and it still looks like new.

NAPA sells a product very much like it. It is either brushed or rolled on. It sells for about $25/qrt. The problenm I have found with the epoxy based coatings like "Gluvit" is that it almost takes an act of God to remove the old so a new coat can be applied properly. It also has a tendency to crack.

Good luck!....DB

Titan ... yep, the paint people(before Dick Nite bought it) puts out the coat-it. Unfortunately, I just heard that they have sold out to a Louisiana company, and it might become unavailable in the near future. Coat-it works many fold better than gluvit from start to finish, but it looks like it may have gone the way of other products that so many of us wish were still around.

I just bought a new boat from willie and I had them paint the bottom with coat-it, how thick of a coat should be on it? It dosnt look very thick. I opted not to spend the money on the uvhm bottom, Im wondering If I made a Mistake.

one idea on removing gluvit or coat-it is by slightly heating it up with a torch.You can then easliy scape it right off. Bob you are 101% right about the coat-it being a much better product than gluvit.

Joe,

I have a 98 willies and also purchased the coat-it option. I too found the coating extremely thin.......not really what I expected for the 150.00 I paid as an option.

If your coating is as thin as mine was, you will definitely want to add a couple coats. I put 2 additional quarts on the center half of the bottom as this is where most of the impacts occur. It's just cheap insurance. Was kind of a "bush-league" move from a company that, otherwise, builds a great boat.

Joe,
Take the boat back and have them apply more coat it to the bottom, Actually demand they do it. I bought a willie in 97. It had caot it on the bottom. It was real thin and was cracking towards the rear of the boat. Water got between the coat it ad the bottom, when t froze half of the crap fell off. I took the boat back to the dealer and had them redo it. It took 2 times before they finally got it right. For the price you pay for that option you should have a 1/4 of the stuff on there. An another thing, If you ordered you boat with clear coated interior make sure there is actually clear coat on the zolatone. Wille makes a great boat but thier paint department blows goats.......

I applied coat-it this npast weekend. 1st I used a weed burner (big propane torch) to heat and remove gluvit. Worked great. took me about an hour to do a 16' dft. boat. 2nd I followed the directions to a tee. I got some phosphoric acid from a marine repair shop and use "scotch brite" pads a 3M PRODUCT and throughly scrubbed down the bottom. Then with a palm sander & 60 grit sand paper gave it a good going over. Then I srubed down the again with more acid wash and let dry completely. Then I applied a coat of product and let set up until tackiness was almost all gone. Then I mixed up the remainder and applied it. The product info says you can apply a 20 mil. thick coat. Having two 80 degree days helped the curing process. Only problem I had was keeping bugs out of it until it set up. Also a side note, I also cleaned up the chines along the bottom of my Alumaweld and ran the coat-it on the chines and ended it next to hull. I masked the hull off to get a nice clean finish. Can't wait to get out and give it a try. Tight Lines & Smilin' Faces
rod 'n' reel

------------------


[This message has been edited by rod 'n' reel (edited 06-05-2000).]

hey nofish, use the search funtion on this page for : Drift Boat Bottom Protection. The following are topics and dates for discussions on this subject. PROTECTING THE BOTTOM OF YOUR BOAT-4/10/99; DRIFT BOAT BOTTOM PROTECTION-11/28/99; SEALING GLASS BOATS-2/29/00. Hope this helps you out. TIGHT LINES & SMILIN' FACES

------------------

Thanks alot for the information everybody, now I just gotta find the time to do it. Looks like Coat-it is the product for me, especially since the boat only gets out 5-6 times a year. It just seems like every time we venture out to the Nooch or Bogey, it's low water! I could not believe my eyes this last February, the Bogey River was the Bogey Creek!

I know this is an old thread, but being a new guy, I was going through them and reading...

Coat-It was made by Titan Corporation in Lynnwood. They are, in fact, who we (Dick Nite) bought Fishermun's Lure Coat from. They have, indeed, been swallowed up by a large corporation. Good news is, our Fishermun's Lure Coat Clear Top Coat (S-81) is EXACTLY the same product. Same stuff, different label.

Just in case you folks can't find the original label anymore, now you know how to fix your sleds and other boats. 'Nuff said.

Tight Lines.

d|:^)
Dick

------------------
---
dicknite@dicknite.com
http://www.dicknite.com