I fish braided line 100 days a year, mostly in the salt. I use braid on my surfcasting rods. It casts a mile, is easy to use (e.g. it floats and is usually highly visible) and the coated GSP's (like Fireline) actually have good abrasion resistance -- not great, but comparable to most monos. I think buzz bombs (whatever they are) from the beach and braids would go well togther.
APPENDIX: My thoughts on various brands and knots have been posted before. The executive summary is (a) Fireline is my preferred line; (b) the choice of knots is critical; (c) be careful around this and other braided lines: the deep line cuts are painful, even dangerous. In greater detail:
Fireline (other coated gelspun polyethylene, or "GSP"): typically 14lb Fireline ("FL") breaks at 20lbs when fresh. 20lb FL breaks at 30lbs. (I don't fish 10lb much, but it broke at 13lbs when last tested.) Knots: if you want a 100% connection to swivels and the like, use a double uniknot.
Leaders: I ALWAYS fish a leader with braided lines. You need 6' or so of mono or flourocarbon ("FC") to put some stretch in your system. Braid breaks on hooksets or strikes when big fish hit big lures at speed (think GT's on trolled poppers: Hohwaiian, are you back yet?) Mono and FC stretch 15-25%. That 6' leader allows you to run a stiffer rod than you otherwise would.
Line-to-leader connections: If you don't have to cast, use a swivel. If you need to reel the connection through the guides, tie a double in the FL using either a Spider Hitch (easy) or a Bimini Twist (harder, but not that hard). Connect the doubled FL to the shock leader using an improved Albright. The "improved" part comes from starting the wraps at the loop and wrapping 5-7 times AWAY from the loop, then reversing direction and continuing to wrap 5-7 times BACK towards the leader loop. Make certain the line exits the leader loop the same way it came in. Gently tighten up, trim and superglue for a smoother, stronger finish.)
Spiderwire/ Uncoated GSP: These lines are even thinner than FL and a lot limper. They are harder to handle in lighter tests, and are also less abrasion resistant. However, they work fine. A double uniknot is the way to attach these lines to BOTH swivels and leaders (use a single uniknot for the mono or FC leader).
DO NOT use clinch or blood knots with these lines, esp. Fireline (coated GSP's).
A TRIPLE PALOMAR (three times through the hook eye) is also an excellent knot -- equal to the double uniknot (but harder to tie in my view)
There are plenty of other knots that work just as well, but these are the ones that work well for me. Any serious fisherman should have a good book on knots. The best I've seen is Geoff Wilson's "Complete Book of Fishing Knots & Rigs" (International edition, 1997). It has an orange cover and Frank Amato sells it.
FINALLY, have something on your person to break these lines. Even a heavily gloved hand will result in at least a cut glove and maybe worse. I use the cardboard centers from fax paper rolls cut in half and wrapped with electrician's tape to waterproof them. Notch the ends so the line can be wrapped lengthwise without slipping. If this sounds like too much work, Bass Pro sells a braided line breaker for $5 that does the same thing.
* * * * *
For what it's worth, I don't drift fish, side drift or boondog with braided lines for salmon or steelhead. Too hard to use safely, and I don't like leaving braided line on the river bed. I have usee braid for jigs under floats, but this is a new technique for me and I can't claim any great storehouse of experience. Others on this Board swear by it, however.
[This message has been edited by Snagly (edited 08-08-2000).]
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